Reefer 170

[Miszka]

Hello world

[Miszka]

[G.Alexander]

Thank you for sharing 👍 If you like to please post some details about your system.

G.Alexander

[Miszka]

AQUARIUM DATA

Display Tank: 60x50x50 / 130liters
Sump: 35 liters
Total Volume: 165 liters

SYSTEM PARAMETERS

Alkalinity: ~7 (Alkatronic)
Calcium: 410
pH: 8.0-8.3 (Alkatronic)
Magnesium: 1280
Temperature: 25-27C
PO4 (Phosphate): 0.00 (Hanna)
NO3 (Nitrate): 25! (Af)
Potassium: 380 (Salifert)
Salinity: 35ppt


LIGHTING


AI Hydra 64HD + 2x24w T5 Blue plus + Aquablue Special
Soon I will add 4x24w T5 Ati Sunpower
Photoperiod:
Full light from 11-18 (7h), 2 T5 bulbs from 10-20 (10h/day)


FILTRATION & SAMP; ADDITIVES

ZEOvit Products:

Zeolites: 0,5 (300l/h flow) replaced every 6 weeks
Activated Carbon: 150ml replaced every 4 weeks
Zeobak: 1 drop 3x week
Zeostart: 0,4ml/day
Sponge Power: 1 drop 3x week
Zeofood Plus: 1drop 3x week

Salt:
Fauna Marine Professional Sea Salt 20l water change twice a week.


Experiences with the products:
I have been using KZ since May this year.

EQUIPMENT & SAMP; MAINTENANCE

Ca / MG / KH addition: Fauna marin Balling Light
Reverse Osmosis: 150gpd with DI column

Water Circulation:
Jebao DCP 3000 main pump
2x Sicce XStream SDC + 1x Sicce XStream 3500 + Tunze Wavebox 6208

Cooling System: Windmills

ZEOvit Reaktor: Twistman Zeo-450-120 powered by Eheim Compact On 300 pump

Protein Skimmer: Red Sea RSK-300

Algae Reactor: Tunze MAR 3181



Recently, I have a problem with the high No3. Because of this, cyanobacteria began to appear. From the disproportion of NO3 25 to Po4 0.00

[jacky]

Beautiful coral and neat coral room. From the signs in the picture, I would suggest that you add or reduce the dose of the rest of the products except Zeo basic nutritional products temporarily until the cyano improves.

It’s uncertain whether to add additional products such as nutritional coloring, or the iodine dosage，If the dose of iodine, let's temporarily add

Dry rock material, this may take more time before the biological state is healthy. It is uncertain whether the sand is initially dry or wet. The combination of wet sand and the Zeo system may lead to a combination of Cyano and algae.

Ensure that the flow rate of the zeolite reactor is at the correct level. Clean the skimmer's collection cup to make more mud outlets. When changing the water, vacuum the inside of the sand to make more mud outlets. It may make sense to take extra few more and larger water changes to refresh the elements in a balanced way.

Suggestion: Dosage of 2:1 mixture (CoralSnow+Zeo Bac) for 10 days. It can neutralize unnecessary acid, and achieve clearer water, supplement of bacteria and microorganisms, and strengthen biology.

[Miszka]

Beautiful coral and neat coral room. From the signs in the picture, I would suggest that you add or reduce the dose of the rest of the products except Zeo basic nutritional products temporarily until the cyano improves.

It’s uncertain whether to add additional products such as nutritional coloring, or the iodine dosage，If the dose of iodine, let's temporarily add

Dry rock material, this may take more time before the biological state is healthy. It is uncertain whether the sand is initially dry or wet. The combination of wet sand and the Zeo system may lead to a combination of Cyano and algae.

Ensure that the flow rate of the zeolite reactor is at the correct level. Clean the skimmer's collection cup to make more mud outlets. When changing the water, vacuum the inside of the sand to make more mud outlets. It may make sense to take extra few more and larger water changes to refresh the elements in a balanced way.

Suggestion: Dosage of 2:1 mixture (CoralSnow+Zeo Bac) for 10 days. It can neutralize unnecessary acid, and achieve clearer water, supplement of bacteria and microorganisms, and strengthen biology.

The aquarium was founded on May 5, 2020, but only from May this year I switched to the KZ system. Before the KZ method, I brought the parameters to virtually zero, then I had a Dino discharge. I started feeding more frozen foods and raised no3 to 5, Dino was gone. I switched to KZ, the parameters dropped to zero, no Dino. No3 was slowly rising to its present value of 25mg / l at zero po4. It seems to me that it is the fault of the sand, with every change since June I started sucking up the sand, despite the Valencinea strigata there was a lot of detitrus in the sand. Something probably got into the water column and hence the result No3. I stopped Zeofood7 recently. Now only Zeovit pebbles, zeobac daily, zeostart 2 and sponge power 3 times a week. I will try with larger water changes and a combination of coral snow. Thank you.

[jacky]

You did a good job, stop Zeo Food for now (show the picture from Coral and Cyano's problem). Because of the system conversion and dry rock material, it takes more time, let's try the mixture for a while, vacuum as much as possible until you are exhausted.

There is a problem with Dino. I think it has nothing to do with the amount of nutrition. Many people think that poor nutrition causes Dino. This is wrong. I understand it-when the lack of nutrition (good, best) is revealed, it brings out the problems of "old existence" instead of "causing"

Since this is a system conversion, it’s hard to tell the time and whether the conversion dosage is correct. Let’s try the mixture for 10 days. Cyano growth occurs for many reasons, such as: impure water, product addition, iodine addition, Wet sand is combined with Zeo system, different bacterial combinations compete for death (system conversion), too much red spectrum, accumulation of nutrients, filter materials or equipment, etc.
Let us reduce your frozen food and other nutrients

Dino is indeed a long and difficult challenge, and I am very happy that you solved it. Let us try to put the water in the direction of poor nutrition (N and P are 0).

[Miszka]

You did a good job, stop Zeo Food for now (show the picture from Coral and Cyano's problem). Because of the system conversion and dry rock material, it takes more time, let's try the mixture for a while, vacuum as much as possible until you are exhausted.

There is a problem with Dino. I think it has nothing to do with the amount of nutrition. Many people think that poor nutrition causes Dino. This is wrong. I understand it-when the lack of nutrition (good, best) is revealed, it brings out the problems of "old existence" instead of "causing"

Since this is a system conversion, it’s hard to tell the time and whether the conversion dosage is correct. Let’s try the mixture for 10 days. Cyano growth occurs for many reasons, such as: impure water, product addition, iodine addition, Wet sand is combined with Zeo system, different bacterial combinations compete for death (system conversion), too much red spectrum, accumulation of nutrients, filter materials or equipment, etc.
Let us reduce your frozen food and other nutrients

Dino is indeed a long and difficult challenge, and I am very happy that you solved it. Let us try to put the water in the direction of poor nutrition (N and P are 0).

I will, thank you. What do you think of bubble scrubbing in the evenings as an additional treatment?

[jacky]

I will, thank you. What do you think of bubble scrubbing in the evenings as an additional treatment?

Sorry, can you explain it in another way, I don’t know what you mean

If my understanding is correct, in my area, some people have tried to create a lot of small air with the equipment to fill the main display system, trying to overcome the problem. I have not done this before, it may affect the health of corals and other issues. But I think that, in fact, we will be more efficient by using a "manpower" approach (pumping a vacuum to make more mud outlets).

Can you display more pictures of the current main display system and Sump with more clear (white light) pictures?

[G.Alexander]

I would calculate the net water volume of your system to ~ 130 liters therefore I would recommend you some changes:

Zeolites: 0,4 (165 - 200l/h flow) replaced every 6 weeks
Activated Carbon: 150ml replaced every 4 weeks
Zeobak: 1 drop 3x week
Zeostart: 0,15ml 2 x per day
Sponge Power: 1 drop 3x week
Zeofood Plus: 1 drop 2x week

To treat the cyanos I would first try to dose a mixture of 2 drops ZeoBac and 3 ml CoralSnow (Standard) daily for 10 days. While doing this no additional ZeoBac dosage is necessary. This has helped many to get rid of them but it is not a 100% guaranty that they will rally disappear.

Have you already cross check the NO3 level with a different test kit ?

Do you dose anything else than the above ?

Please also post a picture of your sump and tell us something more about the fish stocking level of the system.

G.Alexander

[Miszka]

Livestock:
2x Amphiprion ocellaris
1x Chromis viridis
1x Valenciennea strigata
1x Acreichthys tomentosus
1x Pterapogon kauderni
1x Lysmata amboinensis
100+ Snails
1x Pseudocheilinus hexataenia

I will try this mixture Coral snow + Zeobak
I did not measure with another test for no3. I compared this test to the af reference fluid and it showed zero. But I'll try with another test, Salifert hasn't let me down yet, I'm not happy with the AF tests.
I do not use anything else.

The photo shows the last stretch of sand in the aquarium, which I thought to keep, but I will remove it at the next water change.

[jacky]

I clicked and read the picture. Coral seems to be suffering from some kind of stress and signs of TN. What brand of activated carbon do you use? Let us fill in the basic information of the tank as we said in #3. This is really more detailed.

I don’t have enough experience. I can see some clues from the pictures, and I am not sure if it is the leaching of harmful substances that causes coral damage.
1. The gray plastic sticking between the outlet of the zeolite reactor and the body (this seems to have been modified by you? I'm not sure)
2. The white plastic basket behind the Sump
3. The green hose. If it is me, I will fix these problems as soon as possible.

1.) I’m not sure if it’s good, I’m really sorry
2.) Delete the white basket and temporarily use the mesh bag to fly passively
3.) Delete the green hose and change all the white hoses to silicone material

4. Brown film and algae and others, as suggested in #10, try mixture treatment, change Zeo Bac to 2 drops, which will help biology
5. There seems to be some signs of Dino, I'm not sure, but it seems to be (1.2.3. Improve it)

The use and use of activated carbon brands and the amount and flow of zeolite materials seem to be related to the health of corals, just like the current signs of corals (corals have no organization, no polyps, and polyps cannot grow and expand). Please be sure Pay attention to the correct use of these two items.

To be honest, I also doubted the levels of NO3 and PO4 in the previous time. Like G. said, let us cross-check, get the correct level and release it (nitrate and phosphate)

When 1.2.3. is definitely improved, let's try to turn off the lighting. The main display system and sump use black cloth to block the light, avoiding any light entering, and do it for 3 days. Many people have improved as a result. All other proposed projects are still in progress, paying special attention to the online and stable basic water parameters.

The basic water parameters also make sure to include potassium for the correct level
Kh 6.5-7.5
Ca 400-420
Mg 1250-1300
K+~380g

[G.Alexander]

Additional to the cross check of your NO3 test kit please also check your RO water with a accurate TDS meter. Have you experiences a increase of the cyanos after a water change ?

I would suggest to try the treatment with CoralSnow and ZeoBac first, if this dose not fix the problem with the cyanos CyanoClean or A-Balance are two other alternatives.

As you have removed a lot of sand already I would do also expect that this has a heavy impact to the biology in such a !young” system especially you have just used dry rocks for the rockwork.

If possible replace all hoses which are not silicone with silicon hoses, those green hoses for example get harder over the time which softeners are leaching, they are not really good for saltwater systems.

G.Alexander

[Miszka]

I clicked and read the picture. Coral seems to be suffering from some kind of stress and signs of TN. What brand of activated carbon do you use? Let us fill in the basic information of the tank as we said in #3. This is really more detailed.

I don’t have enough experience. I can see some clues from the pictures, and I am not sure if it is the leaching of harmful substances that causes coral damage.
1. The gray plastic sticking between the outlet of the zeolite reactor and the body (this seems to have been modified by you? I'm not sure)
2. The white plastic basket behind the Sump
3. The green hose. If it is me, I will fix these problems as soon as possible.

1.) I’m not sure if it’s good, I’m really sorry
2.) Delete the white basket and temporarily use the mesh bag to fly passively
3.) Delete the green hose and change all the white hoses to silicone material

4. Brown film and algae and others, as suggested in #10, try mixture treatment, change Zeo Bac to 2 drops, which will help biology
5. There seems to be some signs of Dino, I'm not sure, but it seems to be (1.2.3. Improve it)

The use and use of activated carbon brands and the amount and flow of zeolite materials seem to be related to the health of corals, just like the current signs of corals (corals have no organization, no polyps, and polyps cannot grow and expand). Please be sure Pay attention to the correct use of these two items.

To be honest, I also doubted the levels of NO3 and PO4 in the previous time. Like G. said, let us cross-check, get the correct level and release it (nitrate and phosphate)

When 1.2.3. is definitely improved, let's try to turn off the lighting. The main display system and sump use black cloth to block the light, avoiding any light entering, and do it for 3 days. Many people have improved as a result. All other proposed projects are still in progress, paying special attention to the online and stable basic water parameters.

The basic water parameters also make sure to include potassium for the correct level
Kh 6.5-7.5
Ca 400-420
Mg 1250-1300
K+~380g

The photo from Stylophora pistillata milka may worry TN, but this cavity is long overdue, like echinopora lamellosa burned milka. I use Red Sea coal.
1. This is the original reactor element
2. The plastic cup is a replacement for the Red Sea filter sock: https://www.redseafish.com/hardware/filter-media-cup/ filled with maxspect bio spheres https://www.maxspect.com/index.php? option = com_content & view = article & id = 312: nt & catid = 86 & lang = en & Itemid = 792
3. The green snake is the original element of the Red Sea set, do you think that it needs to be replaced?

As soon as I have coral snow, I start a 10-day treatment.
I will confirm the no3 value with the salifert test.
Wait for the tank to darken until I undergo a 10-day treatment with the Coral snow + Zeo Bac mixture?

[Miszka]

Additional to the cross check of your NO3 test kit please also check your RO water with a accurate TDS meter. Have you experiences a increase of the cyanos after a water change ?

I would suggest to try the treatment with CoralSnow and ZeoBac first, if this dose not fix the problem with the cyanos CyanoClean or A-Balance are two other alternatives.

As you have removed a lot of sand already I would do also expect that this has a heavy impact to the biology in such a !young” system especially you have just used dry rocks for the rockwork.

If possible replace all hoses which are not silicone with silicon hoses, those green hoses for example get harder over the time which softeners are leaching, they are not really good for saltwater systems.

G.Alexander

I will check no3 with the salifert test.
TDS shows 002
I notice an increase in cyano during the day, while in the evenings and in the mornings, when the light is less intense, cyano fades a little.

I am waiting for coral snow and I am starting the treatment.
It also seems to me that the removal of sand has severely disturbed the biology, with the last change I removed almost all the sand that was left. 2 more changes and the bottom should be clean.

Do you suggest any specific, safe silicone hoses?