ICP test - too high, can be connected with possible overdosing of some KZ product?

[DusanII]

Kh Or sodium bicarbonate are all of a muchniess
different manufacturers mix at slight different levels.

This is Redsea
which is 100grams per 1000ml solution (1kg mixed 10 liter RODI water)

AF was 80 grams per1000ml

Good idea - I will make the solution about these volumes and then test the water. I have an automatic KH tester, so I will see 4 times a day how much it effect and then try to balance it accordingly.

many thanks

Dušan

[DusanII]

Hello Dušan, thank you for the additional details.

Lets keep dosing iodine @ 1 drop / 100 liters 2 x weekly. Bascially you can also try to increase it to 3 x weekly but I do not expect any postive effect from it but you can give it a try.

I have not found information about the KH Plus supplement from korallenzucht, they seem not to have published it. Usually their maximum recommendation is the quantity which does not cause any issues so to be 100% save I would use 50% of this recommendatoin dosing a KH test before and after about one hour to see which effect it does have to get a feeling for it.. This might be a good alternative:

https://www.korallen-zucht.de/en/Sal...owder-1kg.html

Make sure to increase the KH not to quick.

G.Alexander

many thanks - I will try to buy the powder version to mix it.

[DusanII]

Evening.

Can you post pic of this string algae you mentioned.

Ever since ICP test came into reefing.
there has always been some interesting results.

I generally used them as a guide ( if tank looks good and growing then result can be error)


- one that always comes up is Barium.
never really pin down over the year of where it’s come from.
speculation of zeo stone with a few old Zeohead
But others never using zeo product have higher levers, salt, filler in salt, carbons and water source. Additives in carbon filters maybe ??

would be interesting if some could pin down source

Hi Nz-Nick,

Here are the pictures of the algae - they are only just under the surface of the back side so no perfect photos. and there is a slight brown film on the front glass growing - but nothing dramatic - every other day I just get it down by scaper.

[DusanII]

Sorry for my poor explanation. I mean, the coral look doesn't look so light.

Light = good/polyp expansion/more elements used by coral/color more prominent/nutrient poor good.

Dark = bad / polyps not expanding / more elements not utilized by corals / color brown / nutrition.

I know that iron can affect the appearance of corals, the green color, and the algae problem, and the appearance of corals will be closed, a layer of brown, but since I don't know where it should fall, I have not noticed this problem, plus my experience Not enough, so I'm sorry. In the same way, the same is true for zinc, strontium and barium. I don't understand these elements. Thanks also G. Now I understand.

many thanks Jacky now it is clear. :-) problem is on my side as non-native speaker...

[NZ-Nick]

Kh Or sodium bicarbonate are all of a muchniess
different manufacturers mix at slight different levels.

This is Redsea
which is 100grams per 1000ml solution (1kg mixed 10 liter RODI water)

AF was 80 grams per1000ml

[G.Alexander]

Hello Dušan, thank you for the additional details.

Lets keep dosing iodine @ 1 drop / 100 liters 2 x weekly. Bascially you can also try to increase it to 3 x weekly but I do not expect any postive effect from it but you can give it a try.

I have not found information about the KH Plus supplement from korallenzucht, they seem not to have published it. Usually their maximum recommendation is the quantity which does not cause any issues so to be 100% save I would use 50% of this recommendatoin dosing a KH test before and after about one hour to see which effect it does have to get a feeling for it.. This might be a good alternative:

https://www.korallen-zucht.de/en/Sal...owder-1kg.html

Make sure to increase the KH not to quick.

G.Alexander

[NZ-Nick]

Evening.

Can you post pic of this string algae you mentioned.

Ever since ICP test came into reefing.
there has always been some interesting results.

I generally used them as a guide ( if tank looks good and growing then result can be error)


- one that always comes up is Barium.
never really pin down over the year of where it’s come from.
speculation of zeo stone with a few old Zeohead
But others never using zeo product have higher levers, salt, filler in salt, carbons and water source. Additives in carbon filters maybe ??

would be interesting if some could pin down source

[jacky]

Sorry for my poor explanation. I mean, the coral look doesn't look so light.

Light = good/polyp expansion/more elements used by coral/color more prominent/nutrient poor good.

Dark = bad / polyps not expanding / more elements not utilized by corals / color brown / nutrition.

I know that iron can affect the appearance of corals, the green color, and the algae problem, and the appearance of corals will be closed, a layer of brown, but since I don't know where it should fall, I have not noticed this problem, plus my experience Not enough, so I'm sorry. In the same way, the same is true for zinc, strontium and barium. I don't understand these elements. Thanks also G. Now I understand.

[Bugger]

Hi Next time you do icp choose the ati kit. It will test source ro water as well as the tank water. You should have changed your filters long time ago and it is possible your membrane is damaged at this point as well.

[DusanII]

Dear Jacky, Alexander, many thanks for your kind support.

I have a few questions:

To Jacky 😊:

Jacky wrote: “The coral tissue in the picture does look darker/darker” what exactly it means, please? I have found it several times somewhere, but as I am not a native speaker – does dark mean “black” or deep, fully coloured? And please, what mean darker/darker? Is this good? Dark = good, White = wrong?

Many thanks

To Alexander:

For Rodi water – I will change cartridges – I guess all are about a year old, so maybe it is not enough effective. I already have KZ purest resin, but the cartridges are old.

1, dosing the Iodin – will you increase the dosing, for example, three times a week instead of 2 times?

2, KZ Kh Plus instead of the Kalkwasser – I would like to exchange to KZ Kh Plus, but I did not find how much one ml of KZ KH plus increase exactly Kh in the tank.

There is only 1 ml is the max for 25 gallons. (cca 100l)

I did several tries, but to be honest, even with maximum dosing – the increase was only 0,1, maybe 0,2 – measured by the Hanna tester.

Do you know how much 1ml of Kh plus should increase the Kh?

I fear testing it too much as I have quite a stable Kh, and I want to avoid creating big ups and downs.

Many thanks for your support

d.

[jacky]

Thanks G. My insight is always small，i hope i didn't screw it up

[G.Alexander]

As long as your corals are not showing any kind of negative response I would personally not do much. You can dose a iodine supplement from time to time if blue coloration is getting to light or if corals like A.millepora have less polyp expansion. Iodine is not very solid in saltwater so I would not count much on the ICP test results.

Strontium can be dosed but I never did and I have never seen any advantage dosing this element additional.

The elevated iron and zinc levels are something which might be more problematic over the time. How do you prepare your RO water and have you cross check the result of your TDS meter with another accurate instrument already ? Additional I would recommend you to run a purest filter resin as the last stage of your RO unit replacing it regular.

Another source for such elements are pumps or a screw in the water or any kind of metal have direct contact to the water, also remove your algae magnet if you do not use it from the water.

G.Alexander

[jacky]

Sounds great, refreshes/replenishes elements in a balanced way, siphons away as much sediment as you can while changing the water, CoralSnow added to the dosing program, BioMate is also a good option. Potassium is also an important element, get a potassium test kit and it should stay at 380~g. For me, I think the nutrient level should be kept at zero, which is better. The coral tissue in the picture does look darker/darker. The lighting part is also recommended to balance the spectrum as it is naturally, which is very good.

kalkwasser is not recommended for higher purity/supplements without other elements

Iodine it's great fuel if you have an algae problem. Personally I would try to put iodine supplements and food7 on hold for a while.

[DusanII]

Dear Jacky, many thanks for quick and detail explaining! I will do the regular water exchange more often for sure.

Hi Bugger - many thanks also to you the Coral Vital - it is KZ Coral Vitalizer product. By cut back - you mean dose less? half?

many thanks Dušan

[Bugger]

Cut back on the b balance and iron.
Zeovit offers a strontium product.
IS coral vital a fauna product?