I also recommend you do the ICP test, it's good. Another idea: Check the magnet brush on the glass for a perfect look. And any pumps also check, whether the cooling copper pipes also leach copper extra (how healthy are the shrimp/snails?)
Were there any additional changes/additions/equipment before coral health went downhill? Let us know (and let us clarify the question)
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Not sure if you have an idea of ββthe exact actual reactor flow. Using a small container, collect the reactor outlet for 30 seconds, volume x120, so you know the flow.
Bonus thoughts: Is there anything else in the new water or how about changing it out? (activated carbon/ozone/etc) (although you say the corals seem to get better with fresh water, that's your observation)
As G. said: It could be because you have anything in your system that leaches harmful substances, like metal or plastic softeners, etc. When you change the water, they get diluted, so the concentration is temporarily low but that's just a theory.
Could you please share a picture of the sump showing the equipment you are using, also please check if you have any non-silicone hoses in your system and if there are hoses made of soft plastic. (If possible, share with more pictures to let us know more, maybe we can see something)β
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Hello juannnn, I am also using the Salifert brand potassium test kit, and sometimes (not often) I test for potassium and it gives me a pretty bad reading, (I thought to myself this is unlikely to be the reading) so, I Retest water, also clean bottle with Ro/DI, wipe dry. After that, it gave me an exact value. There was also a situation where the test solution from the old test kit was running out and it was giving me bad numbers, I tested again and it still gave me a bad number, I opened the new test kit to check and it gave me correct number. I always get my potassium levels tested frequently so I know this is not normal.
I would recommend that you get new test kits to cross-check to make sure the actual potassium concentration is there.
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Thank you for your update Juan, glad to hear things are getting back to normal again π
G.Alexander
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Originally posted by G.Alexander View PostWhat is the actual KH and the actual PO4 level Juan ?
At the moment I would try to keep changes at a very low level so changing the zeovit material might cause issues with the already stressed corals. Depending to the actual PO4 level I would like to give you a recommendation if you post it.
Which kind of potassium test kit do you use and do you have a second one or a reference to cross check ?
A TDS test is something I would do for sure.
G.Alexander
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My potassium test is sslifert, I only have one I have always used the same brand
My tds always are 0 or 1It's been a while since I changed the membrane and the filters, I only change the resins.
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What is the actual KH and the actual PO4 level Juan ?
At the moment I would try to keep changes at a very low level so changing the zeovit material might cause issues with the already stressed corals. Depending to the actual PO4 level I would like to give you a recommendation if you post it.
Which kind of potassium test kit do you use and do you have a second one or a reference to cross check ?
A TDS test is something I would do for sure.
G.Alexander
β
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Originally posted by G.Alexander View PostHello Juan, I would additional recommend you a ICP test, maybe it will show something.
G.Alexander
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Hello Juan, I would additional recommend you a ICP test, maybe it will show something.
G.Alexander
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Thank you for the additional details Juan, do you keep plating Montipora corals and / or Hystix ? If so how is their coloration and growth ?
G.Alexander
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I think that it may be something that is contaminating the aquarium, but I have checked everything and I have not found anything. The aquarium has been set up for 10 years, and the system of pipes and tubes for balling has always been the same. It is a very strange thing because many corals are fine and others that I can classify as more delicate do not look good. In general, there are days when I see the corals as dull, others, however, much better. Especially the yellow ones.
Can you share a picture of your sump showing the equipment you use? In the sink I only have rock and the zeovit reactor. I will upload a photo in the next post
Are you still running your reactor at 50% of the recommended flow? If I have it at 50%. I currently have 10 no3 measured with sslifert. And 0.02 hanna
Can you also tell what kind of carbon you use and if you use the original ZeoVit material? I use carbon and zeovit material
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Hello Juan, sorry I totally missed your last post. Difficult to say but as you mention corals are doing better after each water change might have the reason that there is anything in your system leaching harmful substances like metal or plastic softeners etc. When you do the water change they get watered down so the concentration is temporary lower but this is just a theory.
Can you please share a picture of your sump which does show the equipment you use, also please check if you have any hoses in your system which are not silicone and if anything is made from soft plastic.
Do you still run your reactor with 50% of the recommended flow, please also update your actual PO4 and NO3 level.
Please also share some clear pictures of some affected corals.
Can you also tell which kind of carbon you use and if you run the original ZeoVit material ?
G.Alexander
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When I do water changes I see that the corals improve, but now they are off again, I don't see them as healthy or happy as before and I don't know what the problem is
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Originally posted by G.Alexander View PostHello Juan, lets keep the weekly water change @ 15% at the moment. From your last post I would expect the potassium level is ~ 380 mg so optimal if the test kit result is correct.
Lets add carbon again but at the moment just use 50% of the recommended quantity and low it passively in the sump in a mash bag.
Lets additional reduce the reactor flow to 75% temporary for the next couple of weeks.
As you mention that corals are already looking better I would not do additional changes at the moment to give them time to recover. I would also not add additional fish at the moment.
Please post your full dosing regimen and how much ZeoVit material you have in the reactor.
G.Alexander
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Today's medicion was 390mg
Let's add charcoal again, but at this point only use 50% of the recommended amount and passively lower it down the sump in a mash bag.
Okay. I will do
so Let's further reduce the reactor flow to 75% temporarily over the next two weeks.
Okay
Since you mention that the corals already look better, I wouldn't make any additional changes at this time to give them time to recover. I would also not add additional fish at this time.
How many fish do you recommend? Just enough to maintain good parameters or a high number for the corals to feed on their feces
Please post your full dosing regimen and the amount of ZeoVit material you have in the reactor.
for 300l 500gr zeovit material Sponge power 2 x week Zeobak 2 x week Coral booster 2 x week Flatworm stop 2 x week In a week I will run out of zeovit products and I have to buy again. Any recommendations for the future?
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Hello Juan, lets keep the weekly water change @ 15% at the moment. From your last post I would expect the potassium level is ~ 380 mg so optimal if the test kit result is correct.
Lets add carbon again but at the moment just use 50% of the recommended quantity and low it passively in the sump in a mash bag.
Lets additional reduce the reactor flow to 75% temporary for the next couple of weeks.
As you mention that corals are already looking better I would not do additional changes at the moment to give them time to recover. I would also not add additional fish at the moment.
Please post your full dosing regimen and how much ZeoVit material you have in the reactor.
G.Alexander
β
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