Originally posted by G.Alexander
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Problem with acroporas
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What is the actual KH and the actual PO4 level Juan ?
At the moment I would try to keep changes at a very low level so changing the zeovit material might cause issues with the already stressed corals. Depending to the actual PO4 level I would like to give you a recommendation if you post it.
Which kind of potassium test kit do you use and do you have a second one or a reference to cross check ?
A TDS test is something I would do for sure.
G.Alexander
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Originally posted by G.Alexander View PostWhat is the actual KH and the actual PO4 level Juan ?
At the moment I would try to keep changes at a very low level so changing the zeovit material might cause issues with the already stressed corals. Depending to the actual PO4 level I would like to give you a recommendation if you post it.
Which kind of potassium test kit do you use and do you have a second one or a reference to cross check ?
A TDS test is something I would do for sure.
G.Alexander
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My potassium test is sslifert, I only have one I have always used the same brand
My tds always are 0 or 1It's been a while since I changed the membrane and the filters, I only change the resins.
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Hello juannnn, I am also using the Salifert brand potassium test kit, and sometimes (not often) I test for potassium and it gives me a pretty bad reading, (I thought to myself this is unlikely to be the reading) so, I Retest water, also clean bottle with Ro/DI, wipe dry. After that, it gave me an exact value. There was also a situation where the test solution from the old test kit was running out and it was giving me bad numbers, I tested again and it still gave me a bad number, I opened the new test kit to check and it gave me correct number. I always get my potassium levels tested frequently so I know this is not normal.
I would recommend that you get new test kits to cross-check to make sure the actual potassium concentration is there.
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Not sure if you have an idea of ββthe exact actual reactor flow. Using a small container, collect the reactor outlet for 30 seconds, volume x120, so you know the flow.
Bonus thoughts: Is there anything else in the new water or how about changing it out? (activated carbon/ozone/etc) (although you say the corals seem to get better with fresh water, that's your observation)
As G. said: It could be because you have anything in your system that leaches harmful substances, like metal or plastic softeners, etc. When you change the water, they get diluted, so the concentration is temporarily low but that's just a theory.
Could you please share a picture of the sump showing the equipment you are using, also please check if you have any non-silicone hoses in your system and if there are hoses made of soft plastic. (If possible, share with more pictures to let us know more, maybe we can see something)β
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I also recommend you do the ICP test, it's good. Another idea: Check the magnet brush on the glass for a perfect look. And any pumps also check, whether the cooling copper pipes also leach copper extra (how healthy are the shrimp/snails?)
Were there any additional changes/additions/equipment before coral health went downhill? Let us know (and let us clarify the question)
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