Clean live rock w/o cooking?

[CAReefer]

One of the primary reasons I went with the Zeo method was to get rid of the nusiance algae growing on and among my LR. For me, cooking the rock is not feasible. I have been on Zeo since nov 2004 and have maintained P04 levels of <.03 for 12 months now. My tank has been very low in Potassium for a long time causing pastel like colors and things are looking better. One thing that hasn't improved is the brown plating type of algae growing all over. I have 3 tangs, Sailfin, Pacific Blue and Paellini as well as a foxface rabbit. None of them touch it. Here is a pic.


I have never got in the habit of routinely blowing off the rock during w/c's etc. I have made the commitment to start doing this at least 2x's per week. Would this help? I know it couldn't hurt. I have removed all the rock and scrubbed it a couple times but the algae comes back just as strong. I am also contemplating driving P04 to 0 and leaving it there for a while and see what happens. I have Cheato in my fuge and prop tank and it continues to grow at a pretty good rate. So obviously there is still a nutrient/silicate leak somewhere. All make up/top off water is 0 TDS via RO/DI with dual DI. Any other ideas?

Thanks
Marshal

[wasp]

Marshall if your Chaeto is still showing good growth one has to wonder if your nutrient levels are as low as you think they are.
What kit are you using to test Po4?

[CAReefer]

I'm using a Hanna photo meter so I am reasonably confident that the tank runs <.03
I'm thinking that the combination of growing chaeto and zeo is keeping it where it is, thus my question of driving it to 0 for awhile. I have been running modified (read; reduced) dosing to maintain the .03.

[Aged Salt]

Hi Marshal, you not going to like what I'm going to say---if you're willing to scrape, toothbrush & blast this crap off daily, like I've had to do to rid this menace, it can be done, but it will take slightly overdriving the ZEOvit, plus daily blasting & scrubing the areas affected to finally acjhieve your goal:

1)increase your current Bak & Food7 quantities by 6 drops each--continue your same frequency schedule.
2)increase your Start2 frequency to 4 x's/day[continue your current amount each time, thus increasing the total quantity dosed], handle pumping the zeolites 5 reps each time you dose Start2.
3)split your carbon into two equal quantities. Place 1/2 in a reverse-flow canister on a MJ 400 & 1/2 passively in your sump & knead this daily. Rotate these out & refresh on a weekly basis, eg, if you replace the canister carbon , then the next wk. replace the filter-sock carbon, etc.
4)minimize fish-feedings
5)maximize skimmer efficiency, by neck cleaning daily, bi-weekly complete skimmer cleaning & daily water aspirating the skimmer airline.

Marshal, the added benefit will be enriched coral colors Bob

[Aged Salt]

BTW, Marshal, if you do "supercharge" the ZEOvit, don't be concerned about the extra brown biofilm that certaintly will exist while you're further depleting the system "stored"-nutrients, as this does not do any harm to the corals just more maintenance for a time. Once all the nuisance crap is gone, just reduce your dosages to a level that keeps the Hanna 0.00 but does not cause daily pane-film accumulation. Be sure to maintain your dosages of AAHC & C-V as energy sources for our corals. Bob

[CAReefer]

Isn't there some magical potion I can dump in once and be rid of it? :chainsaw:


I was afraid you would say something like that.
FWIW my current dosing-
340 net gallons
1.5 liter Zeoliths
3 drops 3x week bak/food
4 drops start2 2x daily
13 drops CV daily
4 drops AAHC 3x week
4 drops PIF 3x week
4 drops Poci glow 3x week

Thanks Bob
you Da Man

[CAReefer]

ps forgot a few things. I'm home now and looked at things.
Carbon 1.5 cups passively in sump
Spur ME and Spur 2 dosed as per our previous conversation Bob except I'm using 2 mls of the ME alternately.

[Aged Salt]

Marshal, it will seem like a long time but THE only way to defeat this in-situ is to continue staying ahead of the "wicking-up" of the rock-laden nutrients & driving down the N's/P's with heavier zeo-dosing The carbon quantity for your system that you are currently using is on the low side. Try 1ltr. K-Z carbon, split equally into active & passive flow modes as mentioned above. Your Spurs are fine for now--later when you back off the dosages, you should try 60ml Spur-ME weekly. It's effect on coral color should be immediate, with brilliant, glowing tip & branch colors. If not then your water element composition may already be providing the correct amount of the essential elements, & Spur-ME in your case is not necessary. Bob

[CAReefer]

Update for ya Bob-

First dosing (340 net gallons)
12 drops Bak/Food 3x weekly
10 drops Start 2 3x daily, pumping rock at the time of dosing. (4x daily wont fit into my schedule.)
25 drops C-V daily
All others remain the same as first post.

I had just ordered 4 liters of the SeaChem Matrix carbon. I will run this till depleted/problem algae gone, whichever comes first, then switch the the KZ carbon. I will go to the split carbon when I receive the reinforcemtents and the 400 MJ.

Daily- scrubbing with toothbrush and blowing off of rock with MJ 600. Whew, I got a bunch of rock in there. Probably just the manual removal, but things are already looking much better IMO.

Checked P04 today- .01
I will continue to work towards .00 and then hold that there until the problems are gone.

I'm also contemplating getting rid of the SSB by siphoning some weekly with my WC. I really don't like the look of a BB tank, so once the SSB is gone I would probably go back in with a larger grain size just in front of the rock structure. This would also allow me to point the tunzes more laterally for better suspension of detritus and laminar flow. With the Oolitic/sugar grain I have now, all I get is a sand storm. I have to run the Tunzes at 20 and 70 percent just to keep the cloud down. I have turned them up for now just to help keep the rock clean, but may be defeating the purpose as the sand just settles on the rock, especially at night in dark mode on the controller.

Sorry for the rambling but thought you might want an update.
Marshal

[Aged Salt]

Hi Marshal, your plan looks fine & knowing you, you will succeed A cautionary comment, Alexander recommends only using K-Z carbon with active flow, as other may be too aggressive in that some essential elements may be absorbed. I only have used the active flow technique with the K-Z carbon, so I feel safe in telling you to do this--use the other carbon passively & use only K-Z carbon in your canister flow. Bob

[CAReefer]

Sounds like a winner Bob. I will keep you up to date. Gonna take some pics tommorrow for comparison after it is all cleaned up and covered in coralline.

[CAReefer]

Bob, I just got my K+ and as far as dosing goes, I'm thinking 30 mls for 3 days, then 10ml per day? I am using the SeaChem salt so I will watch for signs of od'ing and adjust accordingly. Sound copacetic to you?

TIA
Marshal

[Aged Salt]

Hi Marshal, if you've used enough Seachem thru WC's to equal your net vol. you may not need K-B Go ahead with the 30ml x 3 doses, then see if corals colors look brighter, especially your monti-plates, Seratioporas or Stylophoras. If not, I'd hold K-B due to the K+ surplus in SC's salt. OTOH, if your colors did improve, I'd dose K-B at 1ml/100g net/day, Bob

[CAReefer]

I have noticed the purple rim on one of my monti's isn't nearly what it was when I dosed the K+ the first time.

Here is a reference pic. I will post a follow up after the 3 - 30 ml doses. Also can be used to gauge my progress on the brown algae issue. So far I have stuck with the plan, daily scrubbing with toothbrush and blowing off with powerhead. Kind of a PITA I have knocked almost every frag I have mounted to the LR off at least once.


I get the feeling that the K+ will be part of my dosing plan for a while.