Tri-color acro changed colors. Why did this happen???

[ReefRockerLive]

When I had first purchased this colony the tips were bright purple and the rest was brown. Slowly I've been keeping an eye on that colony and I have seen those bright purple tips fade out and become brown. This time, instead of the body being brown, it has developed a light Teal like color. These colors seem to mostly come out when I had started to dose the CV.

Is there an explanation as to why this would have happened? Has I will try to post pics later.

Thanks

[ReefRockerLive]

My tank stats are as follows:

pH-7.97
Nitrate-25ppm
Nitrite-0
Ammonia-0
Phosphate-0.15
Calcium-415ppm
Alkalinity-9.6DKH

Hopefully someone can use those levels as a guide.

[Detritivore]

maybe its getting too much light? i have a nana that is really close to the surface, and its natural color is tan with purple tips, but since i have it so high, its very light and you cant see the purple tips

[ReefRockerLive]

I've had this colony for over 2 months now and I haven't seen much growth from it. Could it be that the growth is stunned because of the too much light?

[Mchava]

It might be your phospates. I have one that went all brown when my pO4 was like yours once I lowered the p04 its starting to get the purple tips.
Mario

[Mchava]

Also what test are you using for the p04. I use salifer but it tells me 0. Now I used my friends Hanna meter and it read .05. I would like into lowering the p04

[mesocosm]

Greetings All !

Is there an explanation as to why this would have happened?

When color shifts ... whether I like them or not ... begin to take place in established specimens, my twisted little mind generally focuses on four variables: (1) Photoadaptation; (2) Water chemistry; (3) Available nutrients within the water column; and (4) Pathogens, allelopathy, contamination, and physical trauma.

Note: Don't feel like you need to post answers to any of the following questions, unless you feel that there's something noteworthy. The following lists are just questions that run through my warped brain in between the periods when I'm not banging my head against the wall trying to focus on what might be causing an SPS specimen color shift ...

... ... hehe ...



In terms of photoadaptation ...

What's the photoperiod? ... what's the lighting system? ... type and age of bulbs? ... deepwater or reef crest specimen? ... recently repositioned within the tank? ... any color shifts going on with other specimens? ... any recent upgrades/changes in lighting hardware? ... any shifts in turbidity (water "clarity")?



In terms of pathogens, allelopathy, contamination, and physical trauma ...

Any evidence of flatworms or nudibranchs? ... any visible bacterial mass? ... any visible cyanobacteria mass? ... any concentration of zooplankton on or around the specimen? ... any STN process in evidence? ... any RTN process in evidence? ... proximity/distance between specimens? ... meaningful presence of marcroalgae? ... any new fish or invert specimens interacting with the coral specimen? ... anything in the tank environment that has impacted (blunt trauma) the specimen? ... any "handling errors" regarding the specimen? ... any attachment of specimens using marine epoxy or cyano-acrylics recently? ... any shifts in the appearance of the surface of the tank's water?



In terms of available nutrients in the water column ...

Any change in protein skimmer behavior? ... any changes in filtration media (outside of the "ordinary")? ... status of activated carbon? ... status of live rock? ... status of substrate (if present)? ... quality (spoilage) of any foods being introduced into the system? ... any new "mix" of introduced foods and/or nutrients? ... any change in the behavior/abundance of microalgae in the system? ... any change in the behavior/abundance of zooplankton in the system? ... any change in coral specimen growth patterns in the system? ... any emergence of "new" flora or fauna within the system? ... any shifts in turbidity (water "clarity")? ... any shifts in the appearance of the surface of the tank's water?



In terms of water chemistry ...

How close to NSW parameters is the system's water chemistry? ... any shifts in the chemical variables of the water column? ... any shifts in the physical variables of the water column? ... any change in salt mix (if used)? ... status of RO/DI components (if used)? ... any new "mix" of chemicals being added to the water column? ... what is the age of the products being added into the water column? ... frequency and status of water changes? ... any degradation or contamination of water change containers and/or apparatus?



Having ranted all that ... ...

... Could it be that the growth is stunned because of the too much light?

Absolutely.

My tank stats are as follows:

pH-7.97
Nitrate-25ppm
Nitrite-0
Ammonia-0
Phosphate-0.15
Calcium-415ppm
Alkalinity-9.6DKH

Hopefully someone can use those levels as a guide.

There are two parameters that immediately leap out at me in terms of what might be responsible for the coloration shift ... NO3 and PO4. Adapting husbandry practices such that nitrate goes to <5 ppm, and PO4 goes to <0.03 ppm might be helpful in reducing color shifts.

What's the range of the pH shift in a 24 hour period in the system?
What's the Mg level in the system?

As to the issue of CV dosing, I wouldn't think that there would be a direct correlation ... but an "indirect" correlation is possible (but not in terms of the CV itself). A sustained level of ~25 ppm NO3 indicates to me that an increase in anaerobic bacteria processing of excess NO3, or an increase in the frequency of water changes ... or both ... is in order. Absence an enrichment of the system's capacity to metabolize NO3, the addition of any food/nutrient source ... whether it's CV or not ... could lead to water chemistry which would result in the browning of SPS specimens. Related to this issue is the need to increase the export of PO4 out of the system.

Apologies for the post length ...


JMO ... HTH

[OUinLA]

Phosphates could definately do it, or photo inhibition (too much light). Or, it could be that it's just adapting to the captive environment and will regain it's original appearance in time. I'd try and lower phosphates and bring down the alk a little too. (at least 8ish)

[ReefRockerLive]

Would adding some rowa phos in my tank be helpful or does that remove the PO4 too quickly?

Also, when I setup my calcium reactor I adjusted everything and let it be. Having said that, I am not sure on how to reduce the Alk in my tank to around 8 DKH. So, I'd have to be talked through that process.

I am running 400w MH on my 75g. Now that mesocosm said that acro growth can be stunned due to too much light, do you guys think I have too much light?

I've also realized that not many acros have grown a noticible amount over the last 4 months. i.e-montiporas, formosa, jaquelineae, a blue deepwater, and that tri-color.

As for the testing kits, I use only Salifert. Those kits are about 1 year old except for my Ca test kit which has 3 months of age on it.

For photoadaption I have:
2x400w MH running for 5 hrs. The bulbs are 15k and 20k XM and both are 4 months old. Since I have a bad habbit of not consistency of not replacing the carbon in my tank as I should, maybe that can play a role in my acro color shifting.

My tank goes from 7.89-8.02 in a 24hr span. Would that be considered a large fluctuation rate? Temp goes from 76.8 to 78.02 most of the times on average.

[CAReefer]

I can only speak on the XM15k bulb, I had the same bulb 400 watt SE on an HQI ballast, and growth virtually came to a stand still. If you look at the numbers, the par is rediculously low. I got a little better growth out of the Hamilton 14k. I think your ph fluctuation is perfectly acceptable. Mine runs from 8.05 to 8.2ish.

Marshal

[mesocosm]

Greetings All !

I am running 400w MH on my 75g. Now that mesocosm said that acro growth can be stunned due to too much light, do you guys think I have too much light? ... For photoadaption I have: 2x400w MH running for 5 hrs. The bulbs are 15k and 20k XM and both are 4 months old.

I wouldn't think that a 5 hour 2 X 400W photoperiod would, in and of itself, be a problem. An issue might be if the Acropora specimens are closer than 8" to the surface of the water. JMO.

Would adding some rowa phos in my tank be helpful or does that remove the PO4 too quickly?

Certainly there are consistent reports that using "too much" ROWAphos can remove PO4 to quickly ... with adverse effects. The common strategy is to reduce the recommended amount (typically to ~1/3), and to adjust the amount over time, dependent upon system/coral behavior. Here are some links which may, or may not, be of use to you:

RowaUsa's "How to use ROWAphos Tips"
RowaUsa's ROWAphos information (pdf)
Coral Bleaching (8.25.2005)
Acropora efflorescens (3.03.2005; Last few pics show bleaching from ROWAphos)

Since I have a bad habbit of not consistency of not replacing the carbon in my tank as I should, maybe that can play a role in my acro color shifting.

You too, eh? ...

A re-release of nutrients out of activated carbon that has been left in the system too long could be a contribution to a nutrient issue.

My tank goes from 7.89-8.02 in a 24hr span. Would that be considered a large fluctuation rate? Temp goes from 76.8 to 78.02 most of the times on average.

Neither of these parameter fluctuations appears to me to be problematic.



JMO ... HTH

[ReefRockerLive]

Thanks mesocosm for providing me with all the helpful links! I'll replace the carbon today and add a fresh new batch. I'll order some RowaPhos today and do more frequent water changes.

Also, when I dose CV should the skimmer is off? Does the CV have a better effect if the skimmer is turned off?

Thanks

[coqui1pr]

What type of lighting does the tricolor coral requires?

Nestor

[GTR]

I have frags of the same tri-color under..
250W Radium about 10" deep
250W 10K Ushio about 8" deep
VHO (two 50-50 and one actinic) some about 12" deep and some 4" deep

It's purple tip, beige lower down and green polyps. They actually look best in the VHO tank deep but even the VHO shallow look better than both the Radium and 10K lit frags. Growth seems about the same. The color difference is from the light for sure. Not sure though if it's perception or true color since I didn't move them from tank top tank to compare.

BTW, not much looks good under the VHO unless they're towards the bottom (12"). I have a shelf at one end about 5" deep and most things I put there look washed out and very light. Millie's are an exception, they hold their color.

SteveU

[nyfireman3097]

Hold up bro on the ROWAPHOS I dont think that you can use it while using Zeo if im not mistaking