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  • My Tank info

    Gross water volume of my complete system /
    tank 135 gallon first sump ( mud ) 50 gallon second sump with bio balls in first chamber 50 gallons

    2. net water volume / about 150 gallon total water volume

    3.are you using a caco2 reactor / yes Jetstream one

    4.are you using a po4 reactor / no but I am running posban in a bag

    5.are you using ozone / no

    6.are you using uv/ no

    7.what skimmer are you using / E.T.S.S enviromental tower super skimmer by AETECH

    8.what are your actual po4 and no3 levels / po4 one plus no3 25

    9.what are your actual Ca,Alk,Mg levels/ Ca 500 Alk 12 Mg 1340

    10.what filtration method do you use / first the tank water goes into the first sump then across the Miracle Mud ( were the calupa and some live rock are ) then over and through some blue and white filter material into the finall chamber of the first sump then the genx 1800 pump send some of the water through the skimmer and some through the heater chiller .If it goes through skimmer then it enters the first chamber of the second sump and over the bio balls in the first chamber .If it does through the heater chiller then the water goes through the posban bag and into the second chamber .All this water then goes through another filter material that is blue and white then through the two genx1800 pumps back into the tank .

    11.type of light / maristar fixture with 3 haline 250w 14000 phonix bulbs and 4 t5 super blues 39 watts

    12.what corals do I keep / xenia , polys , zoos, bubble coral , orange tree , anenomes , some others growning not real sure what they are yet

    13. tissue color / xenia grows like a weed , polys seem happy , zoos ,are starting to spread , mushrooms are starting to muliply , anenomes seem unhappy loss of color and size but they have split within the last two months ,

    14.how long has the tank been running / up for about 8 years all the new equipment is less than a year old new equipment is ( light and calcium reactor )

    15. why do I want to use the ZEOvit system / I like the idea and I have a algae issue and my corals don't seem to change in shape or color and the why the systen deals with po4 and other pollutins sound more stable .

    16. any supplemental dosing / yes one cap of purple up one cap of coral-vital a day one cap of kent marine super chelated iron and one cap of kent marine concentrated iodine a week

    17.live rock / yes about one third of my tank is live rock 8 years

    18.any present problems / yes algae a stringy kind and a type that grows in a ball feels like brillo pad but removes easy and levels of po4 and no3 ned better managing

    19.same
    20. what test kit do you use/ red sea ammonia ,nitrate no2 , nitrate no3,and doc wellfish calcium and kh and salifert's magnesium I also have two pinpiont ph monitors

    21.not using

    22. other water parameters and water stability / 1.025 salinity , 78- 81 temp


    Thats about it this is the first step for me next I will wait to hear from the person I email about supplys and then I will get started

    Thanks for all the help and future help

  • #2
    Hi DST, congrats on beginning the ZEOvit method In your situation with an older established reef that has accumulated nutrients, one needs to proceed slowly over the next few months. Before beginning, be sure to understand the ZEOvit guide thoroughly. The parameters for using ZEOvit, are those of NSW, therefore, Ca>400/Mg>1250/KH-6-8dKH. Allow the KH to slowly decrease to the target rtange over the next 1-2 wks. by turning off your CR & supplementing the Ca/Mg during this time if necessary. Normally, I'd recommend pulling your bio-balls/MM from your set-up[nutrient sink], but for now that would along with the water chemistry changes, be too much of a change for your corals. This maybe an option later on though. Do remove the PB from your system when beginning ZEOvit, as this method will slowly reduce your N's/P's. The following zeo-doses are recommended:

    1)dose 1 1/3 measuring Cups of good-quality carbon in a mesh-bag, passively, in your sump, kneaded 3x's/wk & exchanged monthly.
    2)dose 1 1/3 ltrs. zeolites in a zeo-filter with a flow rate of 130gph. A ;ittle more or less is fine. Cycle the zeolite filter on & off at 3 hr. intervals. Pump the stones once or twice a day, 5-10 reps each time. Exchange the zeolites every 6wks.
    3)dose Bak/Food 4 drops daily for the 1st 2wks.[Phase 1 only] then 4 drops each 2x's/wk. Dose in front of the zeo-filter when it's "on"[Bak needs refrigerated].
    4)dose Start2 4 drops 2x's/day near the filter-pump when "on".
    5)dose Aminoacid-LPS at 1 drop/25g net daily
    6)dose PIF at 4 drops 2x's/wk; dose your iron supplement at 1 drop 2x's/wk

    Ask questions as they appear, Bob
    "There might be something to this ZEOvit"

    Comment


    • #3
      THANKS My next step is to biuld my zoe reactor and find a supplier for the supplys of zoe material .

      Comment


      • #4
        one question

        The fact that I have a one inch mix of crushed coral and sand on the bottom of my tank make a difference in the dosing you are recommending.

        thanks John

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi John, yes, a long-term SB will accumulate nutrients as would LR, however, your dosages are conversative allowing for a gradual, but steady nutrient depletion to occur,Bob
          "There might be something to this ZEOvit"

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks I really can't take out the bottom because I do have a fish that lives in a substraight cave . So I still can keep my mud sump going two right .

            Don't mean to ask so many questions just want to do this right the first time .

            Thanks Again
            John

            Comment


            • #7
              John,

              My tank was on the mud system for over 3 yrs before I converted to the zeo system. A couple of things to keep in mind are that with time your nutrient levels may not be able to keep the caulerpa healthy and you may want to consider removing your mud/gravel. In retrospect, I wish I had made my transition to a non-mud/BB tank sooner rather than later. But also keep in mind that my primary goal was to have a SPS reef.

              Jeff
              Pikeman

              Comment


              • #8
                What problems did you run into by keeping your mud sump going and your DSB in the tank

                Comment


                • #9
                  As the nutrient levels decreased, the caulerpa looked less and less healthy so I decided to turn the mud sump into an open sump for detritus to settle. Following that, I had a real difficult time getting my PO4 below 0.03 salifert. My tank just seemed to level out at that PO4 level. I then took my gravel out as I did not have a DSB. As I siphoned out the gravel, I was amazed at the amount of detritus that was captured in the material. This was especially the case in the hard to reach places that are not disturbed as much with the regular tank cleaning (despite turkey baster blasts).

                  After the transition to BB, my PO4 levels moved downward to non-detectable on my Salifert tests. Actually, I probably went a little to far on the nutrient reduction as my Hannah PO4 readings are now in the 0.00 to 0.01 range, but I'm addressing that now.

                  Jeff

                  Jeff
                  Pikeman

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    THANKS JEFF

                    I was thinking of removing everything at one time but didn't want to change to much at one time .I am running two sumps as of right now it wouldn't be much work to just run to the second one .Then remove the substraight from the tank at a later date and time .Maybe 30 minutes tops to do this .I think I will do it in stages first move the drains straight to the second sump .Second remove the bio balls from the second sump .Third remove the substraight from the tank . That sound like a good plan .What do you think ?

                    John

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      DSB= sand and crushed coral on tank bottom correct?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yes, taking it real slow will be the best appraoch for your livestock. I took months to transition, primarily becasue I started with a high nutrient load tank. Also, DSB=deep sand bed. In my case I had aragonite rock (~1/8" pieces) which over time in some spots actually fused together like large rocks because of the accumulated waste. A good example of a "nutrient sink".
                        Pikeman

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Pikeman

                          After the transition to BB, my PO4 levels moved downward to non-detectable on my Salifert tests. Actually, I probably went a little to far on the nutrient reduction as my Hannah PO4 readings are now in the 0.00 to 0.01 range, but I'm addressing that now.

                          Jeff

                          Jeff
                          Hi Jeff, at 0.00 Hanna's, I have found it vital for our coral's health[color & growth] to increase the quantities of AAHC & C-V above previous acceptable dosages. Bob
                          "There might be something to this ZEOvit"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey how much is this Hanna's tool ?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              John, I can not find my invoice/their addy, but the Hanna's cost is ~$160, add ~$20 for the reagents + shipping. It has proven to be invaluable to exacting one's zeo-dosing Bob
                              "There might be something to this ZEOvit"

                              Comment

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