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Hi All,
Well our new setup has gone from redoing the existing 100 gallon, to upgrading to a 150 to well we have and filled a new 220 gallon with all new equipment. Ended up having to move....apartment circuits could not handle the chiller and 3 400watt MH
So to make a long story short we are in a new place and have the 220 setup with most of the equipment going on it as well...still have to hook up the Tunze Osmolater, Medusa Dual Stage, Schuran JS1 and the ZEO system. Our tank is a 220 and we are running the water level 2" below where it typically would be to accomodate the Tunze wavebox, we also have a 35 gallon sump below the tank. Tank was filled with brand new crushed coral and all new RO/DI water with Tropic Marin Pro-Reef Salt. Was filled about 2 weeks ago and have been getting lighting/ other equipment figured out. BK 300 has been running a little over a week.
1. Gross water volume of your complete system (incl. sump etc.) 210 Gallons after rock with sump
2. Net water volume (incl. sump etc.) 210 gallons
3. Are you using a CaCO2 reactor or other technique, will be Schuran JS1 w/ Peri (masterflex) pump
4. Are you using a PO4 reactor (how long, how long ago, etc.) No
5. Are you using Ozone No
6. Are you using UV No
7. What skimmer are you using (type, rated water volume) Bubble King 300 Internal (Not even broken in yet)
8. What are your actual PO4 and NO3 levels PO4 came out 0.35 on Hanna Colorimeter (rock must be high in PO4?) Will test NO3 later
9. What are your actual Ca, Alk and Mg levels Will check later but should be close to where they need to be
10. What filtration method do you use (refugium, DSB, Miracle Mud, etc.) None other then ~200 lbs of liverock (1-4 years old never any nuisance algae)
11. Type of light (Watt, color temp, how old, etc.) 3 Brand New 400 watt Icecap Electronic Ballasts with 10k Coralvue Reflux bulbs (also new) with Lumenarc LAIII reflectors (large not minis), with 2 5' Actinics powered by an Icecap 660 Ballast (bulbs new, ballast ~1 year old).
12. What corals do you keep None currently planning on SPS dominated with some LPS
13. Tissue color (light or dark) None Currently
14. How long has the tank been running ~2 weeks
15. Why do you want to use the ZEOvit system Color and Polyp Extension
16. Any supplemental dosing (type, amount, why, etc.) Currently none - will be all ZEO addatives though later
17. Live rock (how much, how old, etc.) ~200 lbs of 1-4 year old Figi never any nuisance algae
18. Any present problems, PO4 is high other parameters unknown at time
19. Problem description (tissue loss tips, tissue loss base, diatom bloom, algae, etc.) No corals in tank no problems currently
20. What test kit do you use (how old, recently switched, etc.) All Salifert ~1 year old and a new Hanna PO4 Colorimeter
21. Present dosing, amounts and intervals (ZEOvit, ZEObak, ZEOfood, ZEOstart, ZEOspur2, etc.) This is my question
22. Other water parameters and water stability (salinity, temp, etc.) Salinity 1.026, temp is 79
Water flow is created through 4 Tunze 6100s with a 7095 multicontroller, a Tunze wavebox and 2 Eheim 1262 return pumps (about 1100 gph between them maybe a little more - these create surface flow only.
I am posting to ask what I should dose for ZEOfood, ZEObak, ZEOstart2. We are planning on running 2 liters of ZEOlithes (what should the flow through the rocks be - was planning about 100 gph). Also planning on running 2 cups of the ZEOvit Activated Carbon - kneeded 3x's weekly. We were planning on doing 16 drops of ZEOfood, ZEObak daily (basically doing the low dose of 2 drops/25 gallons). Would it be better to do more? Also when you dose where sould you add it in your tank...by the zeo reactor? The Zeobak we were planning on declining the dosing in as the ZEOguide says - after change out 8 drops daily then 8 drops every 2-3 days.
How fast do you think the PO4 will decrease in our setup? Our RO/DI water tested great (0.01 on Colorimeter) so it has to be from our rock. We are not planning on adding any corals until at least after the first change out but will most likely be even later. For fish, we currently have a pair of pink skunk clowns and a large Sebae anenome in the tank. Only other livestock is a tiger pistol shrimp, 3 brittle/serpent stars, a few snails/hermits and possibly a high-fin goby. Planning on adding fish slowly to tank as well over a period of time.
Any other suggestions/opinions are appreciated.
Well our new setup has gone from redoing the existing 100 gallon, to upgrading to a 150 to well we have and filled a new 220 gallon with all new equipment. Ended up having to move....apartment circuits could not handle the chiller and 3 400watt MH
So to make a long story short we are in a new place and have the 220 setup with most of the equipment going on it as well...still have to hook up the Tunze Osmolater, Medusa Dual Stage, Schuran JS1 and the ZEO system. Our tank is a 220 and we are running the water level 2" below where it typically would be to accomodate the Tunze wavebox, we also have a 35 gallon sump below the tank. Tank was filled with brand new crushed coral and all new RO/DI water with Tropic Marin Pro-Reef Salt. Was filled about 2 weeks ago and have been getting lighting/ other equipment figured out. BK 300 has been running a little over a week.1. Gross water volume of your complete system (incl. sump etc.) 210 Gallons after rock with sump
2. Net water volume (incl. sump etc.) 210 gallons
3. Are you using a CaCO2 reactor or other technique, will be Schuran JS1 w/ Peri (masterflex) pump
4. Are you using a PO4 reactor (how long, how long ago, etc.) No
5. Are you using Ozone No
6. Are you using UV No
7. What skimmer are you using (type, rated water volume) Bubble King 300 Internal (Not even broken in yet)
8. What are your actual PO4 and NO3 levels PO4 came out 0.35 on Hanna Colorimeter (rock must be high in PO4?) Will test NO3 later
9. What are your actual Ca, Alk and Mg levels Will check later but should be close to where they need to be
10. What filtration method do you use (refugium, DSB, Miracle Mud, etc.) None other then ~200 lbs of liverock (1-4 years old never any nuisance algae)
11. Type of light (Watt, color temp, how old, etc.) 3 Brand New 400 watt Icecap Electronic Ballasts with 10k Coralvue Reflux bulbs (also new) with Lumenarc LAIII reflectors (large not minis), with 2 5' Actinics powered by an Icecap 660 Ballast (bulbs new, ballast ~1 year old).
12. What corals do you keep None currently planning on SPS dominated with some LPS
13. Tissue color (light or dark) None Currently
14. How long has the tank been running ~2 weeks
15. Why do you want to use the ZEOvit system Color and Polyp Extension
16. Any supplemental dosing (type, amount, why, etc.) Currently none - will be all ZEO addatives though later
17. Live rock (how much, how old, etc.) ~200 lbs of 1-4 year old Figi never any nuisance algae
18. Any present problems, PO4 is high other parameters unknown at time
19. Problem description (tissue loss tips, tissue loss base, diatom bloom, algae, etc.) No corals in tank no problems currently
20. What test kit do you use (how old, recently switched, etc.) All Salifert ~1 year old and a new Hanna PO4 Colorimeter
21. Present dosing, amounts and intervals (ZEOvit, ZEObak, ZEOfood, ZEOstart, ZEOspur2, etc.) This is my question
22. Other water parameters and water stability (salinity, temp, etc.) Salinity 1.026, temp is 79
Water flow is created through 4 Tunze 6100s with a 7095 multicontroller, a Tunze wavebox and 2 Eheim 1262 return pumps (about 1100 gph between them maybe a little more - these create surface flow only.
I am posting to ask what I should dose for ZEOfood, ZEObak, ZEOstart2. We are planning on running 2 liters of ZEOlithes (what should the flow through the rocks be - was planning about 100 gph). Also planning on running 2 cups of the ZEOvit Activated Carbon - kneeded 3x's weekly. We were planning on doing 16 drops of ZEOfood, ZEObak daily (basically doing the low dose of 2 drops/25 gallons). Would it be better to do more? Also when you dose where sould you add it in your tank...by the zeo reactor? The Zeobak we were planning on declining the dosing in as the ZEOguide says - after change out 8 drops daily then 8 drops every 2-3 days.
How fast do you think the PO4 will decrease in our setup? Our RO/DI water tested great (0.01 on Colorimeter) so it has to be from our rock. We are not planning on adding any corals until at least after the first change out but will most likely be even later. For fish, we currently have a pair of pink skunk clowns and a large Sebae anenome in the tank. Only other livestock is a tiger pistol shrimp, 3 brittle/serpent stars, a few snails/hermits and possibly a high-fin goby. Planning on adding fish slowly to tank as well over a period of time.
Any other suggestions/opinions are appreciated.
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