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My new zeovit tank......Help me please.

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  • #91
    If nutrients are stabile you can slowly start to transfer your fish step by step. I would recommend to start slow while keeping a eye on the nutrient concentrations.

    G.Alexander

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    • #92
      Yes Alexander, as you have seen on the charts for more than 15 days that the nutrient situation has stabilized now undetectable. I will keep everything under control at this stage, which I know is very important and delicate. Yesterday was the big day, the king of the tub was moved to the new tank ...... now looking at the tank has an absolutely different pleasure. Today I will receive several fragments of sps, I will update tomorrow with new arrivals.
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      • #93
        Good morning, yesterday I received several fragments of sps, unfortunately I think I made a mistake of inexperience ...... most of the corals received express their best under led lights, in addition they have a fairly loaded fabric. However do not demoralize, rather we accept the challenge to make the most of each of them. Now the next important step will be to start the calcium reactor ....... I am terrified of this, it will be my first experience, in the previous tanks I have always used the balling system.
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        • #94
          Before starting the calcium reactor, you must first measure the current basic water parameters and then adjust them slowly. Element consumption-coral number/growth. Keep as much as possible at the level of NSW parameters. Please also remember to change the water 5-10% every week to refresh the elements in a balanced way, which is good. In addition, if potassium reaches 380 mg, please remember to adjust slowly. Potassium=coral health/polyp expansion/multiple color increase. The potassium level is only lower than Ca, which is quite important.

          The tank is still very young, so the speed of adding fish must be slow. It is important to keep the nutrients low
          Last edited by jacky; 08-04-2020, 09:12 AM.

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          • #95
            Thank you Jacky, yes obviously I'm gradually bringing my parameters to the optimal level. The kh has been stable at 7.7 for several days. This was simple enough because I'm using a dosometer to supplement kh. Instead a little more difficult the regulation of the Ca, this I am bringing with manual integrations, currently I am at 380, I plan to bring gradually to 420 and then start with the reactor.
            I am very careful with potassium, I try to calibrate the test reading as much as possible, so far no external integration has been made, only basic products, zeolite and carbonate active.
            I did not understand your expression well: The potassium level is only lower than Ca. Do you mean to say that the level of potassium must be lower than that of calcium? Or do you mean that the level of potassium should not be lower than the level of calcium?
            The first sps inserted really give me confidence, they have a nice appearance, beautiful color, good octopus expansion and you notice that the growths begin ..... for now the road has been really good
            The level of nutrients continues to be undetectable, no other fish I have planned to include at least for the whole month of August, so the current population is:
            • 1 Naso Elegans
            • 2 Ocellaris
            • 1 Exantenia
            Last edited by Alexfdl; 08-05-2020, 01:40 AM.

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            • #96
              Sorry, I always explain badly. I mean, the recommended value of NSW water parameter is Ca 400~420, K+380~400. Compared with the two, the potassium level is only lower than the calcium level, which is also quite an important element

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              • #97
                Good morning, some news of these days. Added animals to help clean the system (all as mentioned in post # 82). Weekly change was made on Thursday, No2, No3 and Po4 values continue to be undetectable, Kh stable still with dosometric, manually integrated calcium (delayed start of reactor on August 16, given my absence for a few days next week). Yesterday a new measurement of potassium was carried out, the value seems to be around 380/390, but as already said at other times it is the most difficult value to read, but if for the value I cannot guarantee with absolute certainty which is the correct one (it can be 370 or 380 or 390) of a thing I can say to be sure, that compared to the previous tests the value is decreasing.
                Now having seen this, could it be the right time to start making small K-balance integrations?
                Everything else seems to go well, growths on the first visible sps inserted, the only thing that still makes me think a little is the water that is not clear at all, it continues to see like a white cloud and some larger particles always suspended in the water, unfortunately from the photos it is really difficult to show this, I made a small video where you can perceive the situation a little, but it is by looking with your eyes that you notice this phenomenon very well.
                https://youtu.be/BA1yLo20978

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                • #98
                  Hello Alex, you can dose some K-Balance if you like to, even if the level is a little bit higher it will not have a negative impact. Starting with 1 ml K-Balance Strong or Standard per 100 liters every other day would be OK. The particles in the water can be air bubbles or any kind of sediment from the fresh setup. Running a filter bag in the sump which is cleaned every other day should fix it if those are particles. At the moment I would not add additional fish.

                  G.Alexander

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                  • #99
                    1. After the mixed salt is fully mixed, test it at the correct level of salinity and record the level (potassium level of the mixed salt). If the value is close to the potassium level marked on the barrel, it means your test reading The way is correct (this is only an approximation, not 100% correct), (cross comparison between the test package and the new water)

                    2. Every day, measure the potassium level at a fixed time every day, fix the reference point (discoloration) you think, do it for 2 weeks, so you can get a standard value

                    3. If the recorded level is a trend of 360-380, it means 1. Very good (the level will not swing too much, the test method is almost correct), then a fixed dose of potassium per day (start with a small dose) 2. After the dose, measure every day , If the value is 380 ~ 420, this is very good. If the potassium value is greater than 450 mg, it means that the level has started to increase. Slowly reduce the fixed dose so that the level is between 400 and 450. With the passage of time, every day and your adjustments, so that you can stay at potassium 380~420

                    4. If there are too many abnormalities in the measurement level at one time, whether the measurement is indeed abnormal again

                    5. The most important thing is, when everything is ready, measure and record 2 to 3 times a week, so that you can better understand potassium levels. Similarly, if the potassium level starts to gradually deplete, you can also gradually and safely adjust the dose to stay at that test level

                    Tank is very young. It maintains the current number of fish. No more fish should be added. Let time pass for a period of time. Maintain a complete Zeo plan. Change the water 5% every week to allow the biology/bacteria to fully grow. Let us see the follow-up Is the water still white mixed

                    Start tracking changes in Kh/Ca/Mg, especially Kh and Mg

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                    • Thanks always for your answers Alexander and Jacky. I treasure all your advice and will update the situation in a few days.
                      I keep testing as much as possible Kh; Ca; Mg and K these days.

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                      • Hello, little update. I had the feeling that some corals were losing some color tone and the fabric was thinner than when they were inserted so I made some comparisons with photos. These are 3 examples, (but I also notice this well on some other animals, and my lsp catalaphyllia is also much clearer). The photos on the left are the corals on the day of insertion (03/08) the photos on the right are from yesterday (12/08). I am continuing with the tests No2, No3 and Po4 always undetectable, K about 380/390 (I have not yet done the cross-check suggested by Jacky, today the weekly change is scheduled and I can check the new salt with my potassium to check when the test changes to the manufacturer's indicated value). Kh always stable at 7.9 and daily calcium currently increasing at 395. Is there any correction to be made? I am a little worried about the Raspeberry, in the picture you can still see some hints of red but live it is almost imperceptible it seems to me that it is losing all the color and it does not give me a good look ........
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                        • Hello Alex, the water parameters are ideal so there is no change necessary. At the moment dosing the basics would also be enough.

                          The corals are beautiful but those kind of corals are very delicate and as the system is still very young they might loose some color. At the moment there is not much you can do, you can try to add some Xtra or AAHC temporary.

                          G.Alexander

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                          • It looks good, the dark tissue is lighter. You can also start with Zeo CV, 2 drops/100 liters, twice a week. Or feed the fish (control the amount carefully). Or Xtra 0.05ml/100L, once a week. Ensure the correct position of the potassium level, ensure the correct flow rate of the zeolite reactor, ensure the use of Zeo carbon, passive flight.

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