Triton Test Results - High Barium - What could be the cause?

[Michal]

Iodine is quite normal to be low because it's unstable and reacts with other things in water.
Thats why it's best to dose a little bit daily, avoid overdosing.

Just curiosity - what is Iron level in your tank according to Triton?

[Pandy]

I understand around 0.06 is regarded as optimal for Iodine?

Iron is zero. I'll post my full Triton results when I can get on to the computer.

[Robbiesreef]

Iron should always show up as zero on a triton test

[Pandy]

Here are the screenshots of my results for reference:

Triton Result March 2017 by Andy, on Flickr

Triton Result March 2017 by Andy, on Flickr

Triton Result March 2017 by Andy, on Flickr

[eraser2001]

Which salt are you using ?
I'm also have high barium and I'm running zeovit. I read in other post that red sea blue bucket has high barium

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[G.Alexander]

Hello Pandy, iodine also iron is not very stabile in saltwater so I would see the test results of those parameters also critic. It is better to dose those elements just if it is necessary depending to the corals. There are some kind of symptoms in which cases those elements can improve coloration and in the case of iron polyp expansion also.

From the PDF guide:

Iodine

The addition of this supplement leads to improved blue colors in SPS. In contrast to PVP
iodide or Lugols Iodide solution, there is no tissue darkening as long as the amount is
appropriate. As a starting dose we recommend to dose 1 drop per 25 gallons, however
the dosing amount and interval should be adjusted to your tank. A very good indicator
for dosing is yellow coral. If your yellow corals display a green shimmer, it is an
indicator of over dosage of this product (or iron concentrate). When this happen, we
recommend that dosing be ceased until coral colors become intense yellow again. With
blue acropora, dosing should be done when colors become less intense. In most cases,
dosing twice weekly at a rate of 1 drop per 100 liters should be sufficient. This
supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method.

Iron

The addition of iron primarily affects the green color formation. However, this element
has to be treated with caution. Iron is known to increase coral growth, but also the
growth of algae. You can see the same result in the density of zooxanthellae in coral
tissue. Darkening of tissue suggests too much iron is being added. As an initial dosing
regimen, we recommend 1 drop per 25 gallons daily. This dosing amount and interval
should be adjusted accordingly. We recommend using yellow corals as indicators. Stop
dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer. Stop dosing this product (or
potassium iodide / fluoride concentrate) until yellow corals become intense yellow again.
In most cases, dosing twice weekly at a rate of 1 drop per 25 gallons should be
sufficient.
(Another indicator that your corals lack iron: red acropora turns pale pink and green
acropora turns yellow.) This supplement can also be used in tanks not using the
ZEOvit® method.

G.Alexander

[Robbiesreef]

I'd be very happy with them results

[Pandy]

Which salt are you using ?
I'm also have high barium and I'm running zeovit. I read in other post that red sea blue bucket has high barium

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I used Reefers Best solely on this tank

Hello Pandy, iodine also iron is not very stabile in saltwater so I would see the test results of those parameters also critic. It is better to dose those elements just if it is necessary depending to the corals. There are some kind of symptoms in which cases those elements can improve coloration and in the case of iron polyp expansion also.

From the PDF guide:

Iodine



Iron



G.Alexander

I may try and get hold of some PIF and start initial low doses and follow that up with another ICP test.

I'd be very happy with them results

I am for the most part - but this sample was sent off whilst my tank was looking really rough in terms of burnt tips and SPS just looking in poor health, so I'm trying to work out what was going on at the time.

Since I've stopped dosing everything bar Start3, Bak, and Coral Snow Plus and performed more water changes, the tank is so much healthier and has returned to looking half decent.

I'll be installing my new ATI powermodule soon, to replace the Radions, so I'll be taking things slow as that'll be a big change. The plan is to keep up with the water changes, and the dosing I'm doing and see how things improve going forward.

[chercm]

i am facing the same burnt tips issue and i am using FM professional salt . is there any known issue with zeovit?

[sps_muc]

Hi,
Do you use Reef Ceramic Pandy?
I have the same elevated levels of Ba, Li; also Al and Si
In my opinion only the caramic material can cause this.
A good friend has the same levels and the same problems.
Also a tank built with reef ceramic instead of live or dry rocks...

Regards
George

[Pandy]

Hi,
Do you use Reef Ceramic Pandy?
I have the same elevated levels of Ba, Li; also Al and Si
In my opinion only the caramic material can cause this.
A good friend has the same levels and the same problems.
Also a tank built with reef ceramic instead of live or dry rocks...

Regards
George

That's a good thought George - I'm using Real Reef gen4 rock, so maybe it is that which is causing some of the elevated levels.

Maybe in terms of the burnt tips I was just adding too much of too many KZ products for a relatively new tank.

Ill send off another ICP soon and see what difference there may be.

[sps_muc]

Hi,
I do not want to scare you!
Also I do not know the substrate material you use.
But I can tell you for sure that in my old big tank, where I had many corals,
and I was dosing quite a lot to keep it nice of the ZeoVit products
all levels were almost perfect!
But of course when the tank is fresh be careful with dosing...

I have three people I know personally for a long time who used atificial substrate.
We all had the same elements in very high concentrations...

In the next weeks I will break down my tank because it is not running well for 2 years now!
When I did weekly large water changed it was OK.
But normal water changes in 2 weeks distance was not enough...
Obviously something is accumulating?

Keep an eye on your situation and the levels!

All best wishes!

Regards
George

[Superlightman]

hello , I know this is an old thread, but how did you fix the barium issue? I started the zeolite method 6 weeks ago and now have the same barium issue, the only thing I changed was the zeolite. Oceamo studies showed that they can leach barium. But how to fix it?

[jacky]

hello , I know this is an old thread, but how did you fix the barium issue? I started the zeolite method 6 weeks ago and now have the same barium issue, the only thing I changed was the zeolite. Oceamo studies showed that they can leach barium. But how to fix it?

I am not capable enough so I don't know if the zeolite material contains barium. We can look at it in another way - as you said, then I would like to ask whether the coral health is affected? (I believe there is no problem). Judging the health of corals by the appearance of PE and polyp expansion, I always can only use this way, and use high-quality salt to maintain a weekly water change of 5-10%.

Bonus idea - you can take some zeolite material and soak it in water and send it for ICP. (If the report shows a high concentration of barium, I think there is no problem) In addition - the zeolite material is composed of many different materials, and the content of different brands of products may be different, but I can say that there is no problem with the zeolite material of KZ.

[Superlightman]

it is sure that it comes from the zeolite, analysis from Oceamo and others have proof that it can leach barium, barium is also one of his main component. The question is if it will be harmful as the material will probably accumulate with time?