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What would cause this? Troubleshoot please.

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  • G.Alexander
    replied
    Not sure what ReefDip is and if this can damage turbellaria. Anybody knows if the red bugs cause such a problems ?

    G.Alexander

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  • CAReefer
    replied
    Ok, got the Reef Dip today from my favorite online dealer. I dipped 4 different pieces from different areas of the tank and in what I would consider to be in varying degrees of health. I saw a bunch of pods and worms, but nothing that even resembled a flatworm. I have seen the red ones. Are the Acro eaters approximately the same body type, just clear? The most symptomatic coral is 15" across and securely attatched to several large pieces of live rock, so exploring for the FW on this piece just aint gonna happen. Later tonight when I have more time, I will try and take a lower branch and dip it. I really don't think this is the problem.

    CAReefer

    On the subject of Reef Dip, does it kill red bugs? I am thinking of using this as a post acclimation, pre display tank QT dip.

    Thanks

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  • curt conrad
    replied
    Wade 2185
    Glad to hear you got them under control.But I would still inspect them.just to make you sure you got all of them.What we don't know if these guys,actually lay eggs on rocks?The seem to like certain acro's for some reason.I haven't found them on the Oregon Tort,Cali Tort....Which is the deep blue in color.They seem to like light colors.They like Soli's/Efflow's.And yes your millie's....There probably a lot of guys,that have these flatworms.And they lose the coral,they don't even know they have them.But you get can rid of them .....But it's a long process.
    c/b

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  • wade2185
    replied
    CAReefer - I agree with Curt. I have been battling the Acro eating flatworms myself latley. Your millis look alot like mine did. I was in denial for a long time until I finally dipped a coral and found them. I broke down my entire 120 and dipped every coral. I fragged the worst ones and put the healthy frags in a QT tank. I removed alot of the bases from others and threw the bases away (this is where the eggs are). I added a six line wrasse, a christmas wrasse and a leopard wrasse to helo try and eat the FW. After about one month I am happy to say that things are starting to look alot better! Try a six line wrasse. When I first put mine in I actually saw him wandering around and picking at my Acros! Good luck!

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  • OUinLA
    replied
    LOL. I guess I should say it was something that I couldn't pinpoint and started with poor polyp extension, then bleaching, then death.

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  • CAReefer
    replied
    I don't like the direction of this conversation. So now I will plug my ears and sing.... LaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLaLa

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  • OUinLA
    replied
    Marshall, I lost a whole tank to this same thing way before ZEO. I am 99% positive it isn't over dosing. I never found out what it was but I wish you the best of luck.

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  • curt conrad
    replied
    You can use Seachem "Reef Dip ".One gallon to 5 mills.If you have new frags,that been added.You can use Lugol's 10 drops per quart.I found out the older colonies can handle the Seachem dip really good.But the small new frags you might have gotten in,the Lugol's isn't as harsh on them.Wait at least 5 mins.before you start to look for them.They will kinda lose a grip on the coral.Get yourself a something that has a point,because you will need to scrape them.They just don't float off,like you would think.I just don't hopw you have them.Because you have to check EVERY CORAL ! For me that was about 100 corals and frags.And all day job ! This stuff is so safe,I've been dip every Sunday now.So no need to worry.Just don't leave them in there longer than 10 minutes.And you will be fine.Your coral pic you posted,that coral will tell you right from the start,if you got them.I've heard they are wide spread threw the hobby now.But you can get a handle on it.If you have a effected coral.It will take about a week,to recover for you.It's amazing how fast they come back,after there removal.Keep us posted.If you need anything else just posted here,and we can help you.

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  • CAReefer
    replied
    I hope not also. What kind of dip do you suggest?
    CAReefer

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  • curt conrad
    replied
    By looking at your photo's it looks like,what I've been threw and still getting rid of them.You won't see these Acro eating flat worms.They are clear....I bet you got these nasty worms.They can do a lot of damage.You need to dip that coral,and then you will see if you have them.They will curl up,then you can get them off.The dip won't hurt your coral.It will travel to other corals.They chew the flesh on them.Lost of color,reduced polyp ext. another sign.,light color.It starts at the base,and works it way up.Also look at the base for a golden coloration of egg clusters.You need to get them also.If you can't get to the eggs.You can super glue gel the clusters.But you better check the coral over very careful for these flatwroms.I know it's not what you want to here.You can get it under control,but you have to keep at it.I had to dip every coral,to find out which ones really had them.This will be my 4 inspection this weekend.The more you do it,the less you will find.But it's a REAL PAIN ..... :sad: I hope you don't have them.....But to find out for sure,the dip will tell you.Give it 10 minutes....Usually they will start to move,and lose a grip in about 5 minutes.You need a good magnifying glass for inspections.That's how hard it is to see these Acro eating Flatworms.Keep us posted.
    C/B

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  • CAReefer
    replied
    Thanks Bob, I am using the start1 until the bottle is gone. 45 bucks you know.

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  • Aged Salt
    replied
    Thnx., Marshal, for the detailed report. Your log certainly points to either the Interceptor Tx &/or the change of carbon brands used with a canister. These denuded areas should recover over the next couple of months, although if you are using Spur2, I would withhold it's use until those areas looked healthy again. It would be fine to use the other zeo-suppplements. Bob

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  • CAReefer
    replied
    Thanks for all the responses. I will try to answer all questions and include the requested pics.

    First the pics.
    This is a full shot of the most severely affected one. Taken today.


    Here is the one from my avatar as of today. The one bald spot midway is from when it fell against the monti in the foreground.


    Here is another affected Mille, it is much lower in the tank and directly behind is a Tunze 6100. so flow isn't the issue here.


    I see no signs of any visual parasites, I have zoomed in extremely close with photoshop and all flesh is clear of any abnormalities.

    Currently using Start1. I am finishing the bottle prior to switching.

    The largest millie is in the top 12" of the tank between a 250 de BLV and a SE hamilton 14k. The other is in the lower third of the tank. directly under BLV. All bulbs more or less 5 months old.

    The most unstable param I have is temp. runs between 78 and 82 at the end of photoperiod. Unfortunately a chiller is not in the budget at the moment. Still working with ventilation and seem to be chipping away at the majority of the swing. Alk had dropped to 7, 2 weeks ago and just now got it back up to 8.

    No one I know in the area has a hanna meter. No other P04 removal process in effect.

    I don't feel it is a lack of available nutrients as the hair algae and macro algaes continue to grow. They have slowed down in the last few weeks and are far from flourishing but growing nonetheless.

    As to the crabs, I have seen none, and I feel the multiple dosages of interceptor takes this out of the equation. I do have a flame angel, tho I have never seen her pick at polyps, the problem seems to be too widespread and in inaccessible areas. I am unfamiliar with what a turbellaria is.

    Funkyskunk may be on to something as I changed to a less expensive carbon to deal with the interceptor tx's. And I ran it (only the last dosage) in a phosban reactor as aggressive use of carbon is recommended after treating. These symptoms exsisted prior to this, but seem to correalate with the first treatment and the use of the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals brand carbon instead of my usual SeaChem Matrix. I removed both the AP carbon and the reactor and went back to my usual 2 cups of SeaChem 1 week after treatment. There does seem to be some improvement since then so that might be the key.

    Flow through the reactor is 225 gph with 2 1/2 liters of Zeoliths.

    Reactor is cycled 3 hrs on 3 hrs off and the skimmer is shut down for 1 hr after dosing bak and food.

    Thanks for all the help.

    Also I may end up being the first Zeo tank of the Month at RC. Skipper contacted me and wants me to submit for june TOTM. I haven't told him yet that I have been a ZeoHead for 4 months. We will see........

    CAReefer

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  • Aged Salt
    replied
    Thnx. Alexander :playboy:
    Christiaan, those suggestions are right on also Marshal, can you check the base for FW's? I wonder if you recently changed carbon brands? Bob

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  • Funkyskunk
    replied
    I am sure that this is a stupid question, as I am sure the answer is no, but just in case, you are not running any other phosphate removers? ( rophos, phosban etc) Also is are your carbon amount’s correct, and it is run passively?
    And is the flow through your Zeo reactor not maybe to strong? Also are you running a 3 hour on 3 hour off cycle?
    Are you also switching off the skimmer for 60min when doseing food/and bak?
    Last edited by Funkyskunk; 04-22-2005, 03:49 AM.

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