For online translations please use the Links at the end of the Thread.
ZEOvit.com is proud to introduce the Dream Tank of the Quarter. Edward Anzaldua of Houston, TX (USA). aka invincible569 has been chosen to showcase his beautiful aquarium for 4th Quarter of 2005. The long wait for his full tank shot is finally here for everyone to enjoy.

I am very thankful for the Internet and the knowledge sharing we exchange. I frequent a couple of forums in which new ideas, new technologies and new methods will help improve my reef keeping skills. Fish and corals are like any other animal and they need the best and healthiest environment they can live in for optimal health. This hobby is about caring for these animals and to learn the other forms of life that are out in our planet that we cannot understand at times. Other than my family, this tank is what I share most of my time with. You can definitely see the difference in coral health by observing, analyzing and caring for these corals over time. At times, I will visit a LFS and see a coral's health declining, and this is when I choose to take it home since I know I could bring its health back up and give it the environment it needs in order to flourish.
I also wanted to thank a few people who have been with me throughout my reef keeping experience. The local people from Houston, TX. I want to thank are reefalot (Kevin Ngo), fishcraze (Quoc), naka (James), Mandoman (Steve), t0mmy108 (Tom), and one person in particular who started me off in this hobby who wish's to remain private. For my Internet friends all across the globe, Gary (Ger), Alexander ****, Aged Salt (Bob), & MSHUR (Mike). You guys have been the closest to me since the beginning of my reef keeping times. My greatest thank you goes out to my loving and supporting wife, Sarah. Everything I learn usually rubs off on her and always helps me make better decisions about my tank when I need the advice.
THE BEGINNING

The reef aquarium was established in April 2003. From the beginning, I knew that I had to plan well without taking any shortcuts. This included all equipment and livestock. I wanted this tank to last for a very long time. After starting the tank, I knew in a couple of years I was going to upgrade. Instead of purchasing recommended equipment for this size tank, I instead started to purchase equipment that would work on a 3-400g tank. This would save me the cost of purchasing new equipment in the future. I wanted the overall package that would help eliminate any problems others may of had from their experience so I aimed for as much reputable equipment as I can get my hands on for complete automation. The goal was to have a fully stocked SPS aquarium with room for these corals to grow. For this, I only chose to purchase 50 lbs of Marshall Island rock. The aquascape was planned for staghorn corals on the right (lower aquascape) and table/more compact corals on the left with a colorful center piece in the middle. Softies and other LPS were used to dress the rest of the aquarium to give it a more diverse and natural look. The more simple the design, the more attractive it will look.


AQUARIUM DATA
AQ. Information
Tenecor Acrylic 100g | 60Lx20Hx18W
MyReef Creations 50g Acrylic Sump
AIS 20g Custom Acrylic Auto Top Off Reservoir
Lighting
Aquaspacelight 3x250w HQI DE (10K AB | 14K Phoenix | 10K AB) w/ 4 Osram PC @ 24w's ea.
IceCap 660 driving 2 URI VHO 60" Super Actinic's and 1 60" ATI T5 Blue
MH's ON for 9.5 hrs
Supplemental/Actinic Lighting on for 12 hrs.
Parameters
Alk : 8
Ca : 450
PH : 7.8-8.1
Mg : 1400
Salinity : 1.025
Temperature : 78
P04 : 0
N03-4: 0
Misc. Equipment
Korallin 3002 Ca Reactor
Catalina Brushed Aluminum C02 Cylinder
Aqua Medic Titan 1/2HP Chiller driven by Aqua Medic Ocean Runner Pump
EuroReef CS6-2 Skimmer
Deltec FR509 Rxtr (filtering water - no ROWA)
AIS Kalkwasser Rxtr (not in use)
AIS Biophos Rxtr
AIS Degas Mini Rxtr
ZEOvit Rxtr
Iwaki Japanese 30XT Return Pump
Kent HiS 60 RO/DI
Aqua Medic ReefDoser Twin
Milwuakee PH Controller 122
WON 300w Heater
APC UPS x 2
MaxiJet Powerhead 1200 x 6
Filtration
ZEOvit zeolites
ZEOfood7
ZEObak
ZEOStart2
KZ Amino Acids
KZ Potassium Iodide Fluoride
Media/Additives
Koralith Coarse Ca Media
Grotech Mg Media
Biophos3 P04 Al. Media
Kent Salt
Kent Carbon
Kent Mg
Kent Calcium
Prop. Tank
AIS Acrylic 50g | 48Lx12Hx24W
Aquaspacelight 2x250w HQI DE (10K AB | 20k XM) w/ 2 Osram PC @ 24w's ea.
EQUIPMENT ROOM


...
...
...
The Fish Room is an enclosed area which has been semi converted from a car garage. The air from this room does not mix with the indoor air which may cause humidity issues down the road. There are plenty of advantages to having your own dedicated fish room and that is why I chose this path years ago. Spills, smells, room for growth, and a convenient work area was not a concern with this type of setup. 2x20 Amp GFCI circuits were also added for additional power.
AIR CIRCULATION

The air circulation in the garage is extreme. I have two 220CFM server fans that blow straight across from the back wall to the front of the garage. I can run the entire tank without a chiller if needed. These fans bring in cool air from the inside of the home which blows over the surface of the tank. These fans also keep the lighting cooled down. Sometimes it's a bit hard to work in the tank when these fans are on, therefore I placed two power on/off switch's next to the fans for ease of shutdown.
LOW NUTRIENT


Low nutrients are achieved by great husbandry and the aid of filtration through the ZEOvit method for my personal aquarium. Finding a balance between fish bioload, a good cleanup crew, quality lighting, and great circulation all increase the chances of achieving low nutrients.
Some additional methods I implemented in order to achieve zero points of nutrient accumulation was the addition of a degas mini chamber. It was added to the end of the effluent output of the Ca Reactor after the Biophos Reactor. It's a 2 step process that the effluent will have to go through before it reenters the main display tank. The refugium was also removed after the macro algae stopped growing. Its now a holding tank for animals. The ZEOvit method also helped me succeed to get close to these low nutrient levels over time. This is why I continue to support and recommend this method of reef keeping to those who want to learn.
My current ZEOvit schedule for a 140g total volume tank:
- 5ml of ZEOstart2 every other day to every 3 days depending on the clarity of the water (sometimes I may not dose for 5 days).
- 5 drops of ZEOfood7 every day to every other day
- 4 drops of Amino Acids every day
- 5 drops of ZEObak every other day to every 3 days. I feed before the lights go out or early morning with skimmer off.
The dosages above are for my aquarium only and should not be used for yours without experienced help from members of the zeovit.com forum. Starting off very low on the ZEOvit method is a guarantee you will not suffer any loss's like I did when I first started. There is a lot to learn with this method and even before ZEOvit, I have always babied my tank with weekly water changes, cleanups, and so on. The only difference I did make was the level of water parameters to NSW levels which I felt help stabilize a lot of my corals health. If these corals flourished in this type of environment in the wild and you take them out to a whole new environment with high levels, then don't expect these corals to always survive. Through evolution, these corals ONLY live in these environments and that should tell you a lot. It's the same with the human race. As an analogy, humans have evolved to where we are at now for environmental reasons such as less hair on our bodies, our feeding is different and so on. If you take where you are today, and placed yourself anywhere 5000 yrs ago, would you survive? Most likely not.
LIGHTING


Lighting is one of the major factors to think about when planning for the ultimate setup since it brings out the overall health of your coral livestock which then reflects on what we see by human eye perception. When I shopped for lighting at the time, I didn't cut any corners. I wanted the corals to have as much quality of light as possible in order for them to respond as they should with optimal health and growth. Corals were placed in certain areas of the tank by the quality of light it needed. Pink, purple, red, and yellow corals were all placed in the "shallow" side of the tank by emitting 10K temperature. Blue and green corals were placed under a 14K spectrum considering the "deep" longer wavelengths it can feed on through photosynthesis. The penetration of light is also a factor I consider by choosing the distance the light will sit close to the tank. I have always wanted to try new bulbs, but this is risky as corals react differently to other brands. I have stuck with 10K AB's since they have proven their production over and over in my aquarium. Having a mix of 10K and 14K is the ultimate combination in my opinion. For the 14K's, I chose the Aquaconnects and recently changed over to Phoenix to see if there was a difference in coral response and look. Having supplemental actinics help wash out the yellow AB's produce. Having a more yellow bulb like the AB's help bring out the purples a bit more from my experience. I leave the MH's on for 9.5 hrs daily. Any more and there is an increase of algae which may cause P04 pockets by trapped detritus. The actinic tubes are angled precisely at an acute angle of 45º by the aid of their internal reflectors. This increases the chances of coloration on the front of the coral rather than just the top for deeper coloration. All bulbs are replaced yearly. There are also no dark spots in the display tank.
MAINTENANCE


Cleaning all viewable windows and walls is a must for my tank. I was never a fan of coralline filled tanks as the color blends in with the rest of the corals. This takes away from the beauty our corals can display. And since they live off of Ca/Sr/Mg, it is safe to say that they compete for the same food source as a coral. Usually about every other day, I am cleaning my tank in some certain area including the sump area. Any trapped detritus will increase your chances of P04 pockets that only brings problems to ones tank. Conch's are also a big help to keeping the sand bright white. I am not a fan of snails (climb/suck) and crabs as they like to knock things down or clog holes. I do have a single brittle star for any excrements or uneaten food that may fall to the floor that the fish cannot get too. The more inverts and cleaners such as shrimp you can have, the better maintained your tank will be. Of course, there is a limit that may starve those animals. Maintenance is also done on cleaning the top acrylic brace and pendant light glass. Since day 1, these items have been fully cleaned on a weekly basis in order to get the best light penetration through to the corals and by also eliminating the dreadful center brace dark spot a lot of people have.
10% water changes are done on a weekly basis for element replenishment. Using Kent's Salt, I have to level out Ca & Mg during the water change to levels of my aquarium. For the water changes, reverse osmosis is driven by Kent's HiS 60gpd unit with a Kent Float Valve that also connects to a float switch leveler in the sump area. Once the float switch lowers by evaporation, a Maxijet 900 is activated which increases the water to its appropriate level. This has helped me when I leave on vacations.
I clean my skimmer body every other month and clean the collection cup every week or less including the neck. Cleaning the skimmer body is a routine maintenance of mine as well. If the inside of the skimmer is not smoothened out, the bubbles will burst before they can make it to the top defeating the purpose of skimming. Skimmate is usually very dark and thick. A cup of warm water is also sucked into the skimmer air line on a monthly basis. The skimmer is also powered by an on/off switch for ease of maintenance or during fish/coral/bacteria feedings.
Testing my water parameters is also a must. I test for Alk, Ca, Mg, Temp, P04, & Salinity on a regular basis. Remember, you are caring for live animals and using my analogy of putting a human in a room/house for the rest of their lives is the same concept. House your corals and fish like you would like to be treated and lived in. You wouldn't like to live in a polluting tank for the rest of your life, would you?
An Aqua Medic Twin Reef Doser is also used for dosing ZEOvit liquids. I set it to dose every 12 hrs at a 4 second interval daily.
WATER CIRCULATION


Circulation is very important in all areas of the tank. In order for chemical reactions to occur in a tank, flow needs to be existent at every angle and corner. Dead spots are non existent including the large sump area. In case of an emergency, one power head is hooked into a single APC UPS and the main return Iwaki pump is hooked into the other APC unit. A Maxijet 1200 at 20w would give the tank a couple of hrs of flow while electricity is out. With an Iwaki at 80w's, it has lasted for about 20 mins when there was no electricity. All flow is designed to flow in a circular motion in the tank.
PROPAGATION TANK

A propagation tank was added for emergencies and for experimentation purposes. I don't use this tank as much as I should, but would like to in the near future. Its a basic setup with nothing but lighting and flow. There is no skimmer, Ca Rxtr, etc. being used. When making water changes in my main display tank, I replace that water with the prop tank in order to keep levels consistent. As you can see in the picture, this tank sits at the back of the garage wall and only leaves a couple of inches from an Escalade (big) truck. To this day, I have never accidentally hit this tank and only I place the car/truck in the garage with my wife guiding me in.
LIVESTOCK

All livestock was chosen accordingly by future size/growth, compatibility within fish and corals, and by their beauty. Just like everyone else, we have learned our lessons in fish keeping. I wanted to have a peaceful aquarium that would help my corals grow for years to come. I have stayed away from Angels, Gobies, and other misc animals that would stress and possibly kill a coral. I don't like putting in any extra fish that I don't need unless necessary. I can easily say that I can hold back to buying a nice fish rather than buying a nice coral. For corals, my main theme was a SPS dominated tank. I collected and purchased most of my livestock online, trading, & by our local fish stores. I can usually eye a coral and see the potential beauty even though it may be a brown out or by its declining health. When introducing a coral into my tank, it will take several months for it to fully blossom into its natural beauty. In this hobby, patience brings you rewards for years to come. Its like raising your own child while you care for it and nourish it in its baby stages. If you don't care and put much time into your child, don't expect them to grow up like you wanted.












Feeding is also kept to a minimum. Fish feedings are every other day using frozen Mysis shrimp. I recently started coral feeding by using Cyclopleeze in powder form. I have also started double dosing Amino Acids. With these two combined, there was a tremendous amount of growth in all of my SPS corals. Since then, I lowered to recommended amounts on Amino Acids since I was getting algae blooms all over the tank windows and the colors of the corals darkened up. Now they are brighter than ever! You definitely have to find a balance between amount of feedings and timing. Pumping of my ZEOvit reactor is also performed every other day to release any mulm or detritus that will help feed my corals and for best of all, to continue the ion exchange process of the zeolite rocks. My Euro Reef skimmer pulls out any excess organics which helps with the high feeding times and also provide the 02 it needs for tank stability.
LIVESTOCK
SPS
A. Austera
A. Cerealis
A. Desalwii
A. Elegans
A. Elseyi
A. Hoeksemai
A. Humilis
A. Loisetteae - Steve T,
A. Millepora - Pink, Yellow, Frost Yellow, & Blue.
A. Monticulosa
A. Nana
A. Nobilis
A. Parilis
A. Robusta
A. Samoensis
A. Selago
A. Simplex
A. Speciosa
A. Suharsonoi
A. Tenius
A. Torihalimeda - Strawberry Stag and Yellow
A. Tortuosa - "Blue Oregon" & Purple.
A. Wallacae
A. Yongei - Purple
M. Aequituberculata
M. Capricornis - Purple Rim Cap & Orange Thick Crust Cap.
M. Circumvellata
M. Danae
M. Digitata
M. Elkhorn
M. Samarensis
M. Turgescens - "Superman"
M. Verrucosa
S. Pistillata
S. Hystrix
Purple Monster
LPS
Enchinophyllia
Acanathrastea Enchinata
Elegance
Cynarina x 2
Fungia
Softies
Clavularia
Ricordea Florida Assortment
Ricordea Yuma Assortment
Fish
Blue "Hippo" Tang
Lawnmower Blenny
Chromis x 2
Inverts
Red Coco Worm
Red Brittle Star
Cleaner Shrimp
Glass Anemone Shrimp
Pederson Shrimp
Coral Banded Shrimp
Peppermint Shrimp x 2
Seahare
Lettuce Nudibranch
Feather Duster Worm Assortment
Queen Conch x 2
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...
...
...
...
CORAL GROWTH
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LETS GET PERSONAL!
Occupation?
Senior Network Admin at a Financial Institution.
Family/Single?
Loving father of 3 beautiful girls; My wife and 2 daughters.
Other Hobbies?
None at the moment, but came from a background of sports car upgrading/tuning. Also owned a local nightlife magazine.
Are you a happy ZEOvit user?
Extremely Happy. I honestly don't feel I would be where I am at now without the aid of ZEOvit. Definitely a proven method in my aquarium.
What/Who got you into the reef hobby?
A good friend of mine. I visited his place, and fell in love with the beauty one can own.
First type of fish and coral?
First fish was a Maroon Clown Tang with a brown anemone.
Last coral and fish acquired?
Japanese Swallowtail, but it died of a disease that prevented him from eating.
Is energy saving a concern for you when purchasing equipment?
Now it is. Before it was not a concern. Since I have been preparing myself for a larger tank, energy saving is definitely a high priority of mine for years to come.
Who do you call for help when you have problems with your aquarium?
My trusted friends on zeovit.com
Have you ever dived or snorkeled and seen an open reef?
No. But definitely in the plans!
Which is your all time favorite aquarium(s)?
My #1 pick of all time is still Steve Weast's 850g Aquarium. His tank is top of the line and does not cut any shortcuts. I have seen many other aquariums around the world and his is very well planned out and has one of the best selections of corals one can dream of with soft/hard coral diversity.
THE FUTURE


There will be no additional plans for this tank. I will be planning to upgrade to a larger aquarium soon. There will be a whole new theme to the new tank which will surprise a lot of people. Its a journey I am anxious to begin!
For now, equipment will be flowing in for the new upgrade. As a teaser, the infamous Bubble King 400 EXT is one of the first pieces of equipment to arrive in order to handle the upgraded volume of water it will need to support. The expense of a Bubble King was grand, but looking into the future and knowing that energy consumption will be minimal for years to come, made me feel I made the right choice. All other future equipment will be reviewed with the same idea.
CAMERA SPECIFICATIONS
All of the pictures on this webpage were taken with the following:
1. Nikon Coolpix 4300
2. Canon 10D with and without a Macro Lens.
Preset settings were used. On the Nikon, Night Mode without Flash was the choice for colorful pictures and the full tank shot. Macro Mode on the Nikon was also used for clearer & closer images. No other setting were changed and white balance was not used with the preset settings. For the Canon 10D (Naka's camera), I used his preexisting settings and chose the P mode for all pictures. The Macro lens was used most of the time for clear crisp images you see below under HQ Images. Tripod and other settings were not used for any of these camera's.
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(©) Copyright 2005 ZEOvit.com / Information on this site is for viewing and personal information only. Information and photos are protected by copyright. Any unauthorized use or reproduction of material from this site without written permission is strictly prohibited. Infringement of copyright will rise to criminal penalties.
I am very thankful for the Internet and the knowledge sharing we exchange. I frequent a couple of forums in which new ideas, new technologies and new methods will help improve my reef keeping skills. Fish and corals are like any other animal and they need the best and healthiest environment they can live in for optimal health. This hobby is about caring for these animals and to learn the other forms of life that are out in our planet that we cannot understand at times. Other than my family, this tank is what I share most of my time with. You can definitely see the difference in coral health by observing, analyzing and caring for these corals over time. At times, I will visit a LFS and see a coral's health declining, and this is when I choose to take it home since I know I could bring its health back up and give it the environment it needs in order to flourish.
I also wanted to thank a few people who have been with me throughout my reef keeping experience. The local people from Houston, TX. I want to thank are reefalot (Kevin Ngo), fishcraze (Quoc), naka (James), Mandoman (Steve), t0mmy108 (Tom), and one person in particular who started me off in this hobby who wish's to remain private. For my Internet friends all across the globe, Gary (Ger), Alexander ****, Aged Salt (Bob), & MSHUR (Mike). You guys have been the closest to me since the beginning of my reef keeping times. My greatest thank you goes out to my loving and supporting wife, Sarah. Everything I learn usually rubs off on her and always helps me make better decisions about my tank when I need the advice.
THE BEGINNING
The reef aquarium was established in April 2003. From the beginning, I knew that I had to plan well without taking any shortcuts. This included all equipment and livestock. I wanted this tank to last for a very long time. After starting the tank, I knew in a couple of years I was going to upgrade. Instead of purchasing recommended equipment for this size tank, I instead started to purchase equipment that would work on a 3-400g tank. This would save me the cost of purchasing new equipment in the future. I wanted the overall package that would help eliminate any problems others may of had from their experience so I aimed for as much reputable equipment as I can get my hands on for complete automation. The goal was to have a fully stocked SPS aquarium with room for these corals to grow. For this, I only chose to purchase 50 lbs of Marshall Island rock. The aquascape was planned for staghorn corals on the right (lower aquascape) and table/more compact corals on the left with a colorful center piece in the middle. Softies and other LPS were used to dress the rest of the aquarium to give it a more diverse and natural look. The more simple the design, the more attractive it will look.
AQUARIUM DATA
AQ. Information
Tenecor Acrylic 100g | 60Lx20Hx18W
MyReef Creations 50g Acrylic Sump
AIS 20g Custom Acrylic Auto Top Off Reservoir
Lighting
Aquaspacelight 3x250w HQI DE (10K AB | 14K Phoenix | 10K AB) w/ 4 Osram PC @ 24w's ea.
IceCap 660 driving 2 URI VHO 60" Super Actinic's and 1 60" ATI T5 Blue
MH's ON for 9.5 hrs
Supplemental/Actinic Lighting on for 12 hrs.
Parameters
Alk : 8
Ca : 450
PH : 7.8-8.1
Mg : 1400
Salinity : 1.025
Temperature : 78
P04 : 0
N03-4: 0
Misc. Equipment
Korallin 3002 Ca Reactor
Catalina Brushed Aluminum C02 Cylinder
Aqua Medic Titan 1/2HP Chiller driven by Aqua Medic Ocean Runner Pump
EuroReef CS6-2 Skimmer
Deltec FR509 Rxtr (filtering water - no ROWA)
AIS Kalkwasser Rxtr (not in use)
AIS Biophos Rxtr
AIS Degas Mini Rxtr
ZEOvit Rxtr
Iwaki Japanese 30XT Return Pump
Kent HiS 60 RO/DI
Aqua Medic ReefDoser Twin
Milwuakee PH Controller 122
WON 300w Heater
APC UPS x 2
MaxiJet Powerhead 1200 x 6
Filtration
ZEOvit zeolites
ZEOfood7
ZEObak
ZEOStart2
KZ Amino Acids
KZ Potassium Iodide Fluoride
Media/Additives
Koralith Coarse Ca Media
Grotech Mg Media
Biophos3 P04 Al. Media
Kent Salt
Kent Carbon
Kent Mg
Kent Calcium
Prop. Tank
AIS Acrylic 50g | 48Lx12Hx24W
Aquaspacelight 2x250w HQI DE (10K AB | 20k XM) w/ 2 Osram PC @ 24w's ea.
EQUIPMENT ROOM
The Fish Room is an enclosed area which has been semi converted from a car garage. The air from this room does not mix with the indoor air which may cause humidity issues down the road. There are plenty of advantages to having your own dedicated fish room and that is why I chose this path years ago. Spills, smells, room for growth, and a convenient work area was not a concern with this type of setup. 2x20 Amp GFCI circuits were also added for additional power.
AIR CIRCULATION
The air circulation in the garage is extreme. I have two 220CFM server fans that blow straight across from the back wall to the front of the garage. I can run the entire tank without a chiller if needed. These fans bring in cool air from the inside of the home which blows over the surface of the tank. These fans also keep the lighting cooled down. Sometimes it's a bit hard to work in the tank when these fans are on, therefore I placed two power on/off switch's next to the fans for ease of shutdown.
LOW NUTRIENT
Low nutrients are achieved by great husbandry and the aid of filtration through the ZEOvit method for my personal aquarium. Finding a balance between fish bioload, a good cleanup crew, quality lighting, and great circulation all increase the chances of achieving low nutrients.
Some additional methods I implemented in order to achieve zero points of nutrient accumulation was the addition of a degas mini chamber. It was added to the end of the effluent output of the Ca Reactor after the Biophos Reactor. It's a 2 step process that the effluent will have to go through before it reenters the main display tank. The refugium was also removed after the macro algae stopped growing. Its now a holding tank for animals. The ZEOvit method also helped me succeed to get close to these low nutrient levels over time. This is why I continue to support and recommend this method of reef keeping to those who want to learn.
My current ZEOvit schedule for a 140g total volume tank:
- 5ml of ZEOstart2 every other day to every 3 days depending on the clarity of the water (sometimes I may not dose for 5 days).
- 5 drops of ZEOfood7 every day to every other day
- 4 drops of Amino Acids every day
- 5 drops of ZEObak every other day to every 3 days. I feed before the lights go out or early morning with skimmer off.
The dosages above are for my aquarium only and should not be used for yours without experienced help from members of the zeovit.com forum. Starting off very low on the ZEOvit method is a guarantee you will not suffer any loss's like I did when I first started. There is a lot to learn with this method and even before ZEOvit, I have always babied my tank with weekly water changes, cleanups, and so on. The only difference I did make was the level of water parameters to NSW levels which I felt help stabilize a lot of my corals health. If these corals flourished in this type of environment in the wild and you take them out to a whole new environment with high levels, then don't expect these corals to always survive. Through evolution, these corals ONLY live in these environments and that should tell you a lot. It's the same with the human race. As an analogy, humans have evolved to where we are at now for environmental reasons such as less hair on our bodies, our feeding is different and so on. If you take where you are today, and placed yourself anywhere 5000 yrs ago, would you survive? Most likely not.
LIGHTING
Lighting is one of the major factors to think about when planning for the ultimate setup since it brings out the overall health of your coral livestock which then reflects on what we see by human eye perception. When I shopped for lighting at the time, I didn't cut any corners. I wanted the corals to have as much quality of light as possible in order for them to respond as they should with optimal health and growth. Corals were placed in certain areas of the tank by the quality of light it needed. Pink, purple, red, and yellow corals were all placed in the "shallow" side of the tank by emitting 10K temperature. Blue and green corals were placed under a 14K spectrum considering the "deep" longer wavelengths it can feed on through photosynthesis. The penetration of light is also a factor I consider by choosing the distance the light will sit close to the tank. I have always wanted to try new bulbs, but this is risky as corals react differently to other brands. I have stuck with 10K AB's since they have proven their production over and over in my aquarium. Having a mix of 10K and 14K is the ultimate combination in my opinion. For the 14K's, I chose the Aquaconnects and recently changed over to Phoenix to see if there was a difference in coral response and look. Having supplemental actinics help wash out the yellow AB's produce. Having a more yellow bulb like the AB's help bring out the purples a bit more from my experience. I leave the MH's on for 9.5 hrs daily. Any more and there is an increase of algae which may cause P04 pockets by trapped detritus. The actinic tubes are angled precisely at an acute angle of 45º by the aid of their internal reflectors. This increases the chances of coloration on the front of the coral rather than just the top for deeper coloration. All bulbs are replaced yearly. There are also no dark spots in the display tank.
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning all viewable windows and walls is a must for my tank. I was never a fan of coralline filled tanks as the color blends in with the rest of the corals. This takes away from the beauty our corals can display. And since they live off of Ca/Sr/Mg, it is safe to say that they compete for the same food source as a coral. Usually about every other day, I am cleaning my tank in some certain area including the sump area. Any trapped detritus will increase your chances of P04 pockets that only brings problems to ones tank. Conch's are also a big help to keeping the sand bright white. I am not a fan of snails (climb/suck) and crabs as they like to knock things down or clog holes. I do have a single brittle star for any excrements or uneaten food that may fall to the floor that the fish cannot get too. The more inverts and cleaners such as shrimp you can have, the better maintained your tank will be. Of course, there is a limit that may starve those animals. Maintenance is also done on cleaning the top acrylic brace and pendant light glass. Since day 1, these items have been fully cleaned on a weekly basis in order to get the best light penetration through to the corals and by also eliminating the dreadful center brace dark spot a lot of people have.
10% water changes are done on a weekly basis for element replenishment. Using Kent's Salt, I have to level out Ca & Mg during the water change to levels of my aquarium. For the water changes, reverse osmosis is driven by Kent's HiS 60gpd unit with a Kent Float Valve that also connects to a float switch leveler in the sump area. Once the float switch lowers by evaporation, a Maxijet 900 is activated which increases the water to its appropriate level. This has helped me when I leave on vacations.
I clean my skimmer body every other month and clean the collection cup every week or less including the neck. Cleaning the skimmer body is a routine maintenance of mine as well. If the inside of the skimmer is not smoothened out, the bubbles will burst before they can make it to the top defeating the purpose of skimming. Skimmate is usually very dark and thick. A cup of warm water is also sucked into the skimmer air line on a monthly basis. The skimmer is also powered by an on/off switch for ease of maintenance or during fish/coral/bacteria feedings.
Testing my water parameters is also a must. I test for Alk, Ca, Mg, Temp, P04, & Salinity on a regular basis. Remember, you are caring for live animals and using my analogy of putting a human in a room/house for the rest of their lives is the same concept. House your corals and fish like you would like to be treated and lived in. You wouldn't like to live in a polluting tank for the rest of your life, would you?
An Aqua Medic Twin Reef Doser is also used for dosing ZEOvit liquids. I set it to dose every 12 hrs at a 4 second interval daily.
WATER CIRCULATION
Circulation is very important in all areas of the tank. In order for chemical reactions to occur in a tank, flow needs to be existent at every angle and corner. Dead spots are non existent including the large sump area. In case of an emergency, one power head is hooked into a single APC UPS and the main return Iwaki pump is hooked into the other APC unit. A Maxijet 1200 at 20w would give the tank a couple of hrs of flow while electricity is out. With an Iwaki at 80w's, it has lasted for about 20 mins when there was no electricity. All flow is designed to flow in a circular motion in the tank.
PROPAGATION TANK
A propagation tank was added for emergencies and for experimentation purposes. I don't use this tank as much as I should, but would like to in the near future. Its a basic setup with nothing but lighting and flow. There is no skimmer, Ca Rxtr, etc. being used. When making water changes in my main display tank, I replace that water with the prop tank in order to keep levels consistent. As you can see in the picture, this tank sits at the back of the garage wall and only leaves a couple of inches from an Escalade (big) truck. To this day, I have never accidentally hit this tank and only I place the car/truck in the garage with my wife guiding me in.
LIVESTOCK
All livestock was chosen accordingly by future size/growth, compatibility within fish and corals, and by their beauty. Just like everyone else, we have learned our lessons in fish keeping. I wanted to have a peaceful aquarium that would help my corals grow for years to come. I have stayed away from Angels, Gobies, and other misc animals that would stress and possibly kill a coral. I don't like putting in any extra fish that I don't need unless necessary. I can easily say that I can hold back to buying a nice fish rather than buying a nice coral. For corals, my main theme was a SPS dominated tank. I collected and purchased most of my livestock online, trading, & by our local fish stores. I can usually eye a coral and see the potential beauty even though it may be a brown out or by its declining health. When introducing a coral into my tank, it will take several months for it to fully blossom into its natural beauty. In this hobby, patience brings you rewards for years to come. Its like raising your own child while you care for it and nourish it in its baby stages. If you don't care and put much time into your child, don't expect them to grow up like you wanted.
Feeding is also kept to a minimum. Fish feedings are every other day using frozen Mysis shrimp. I recently started coral feeding by using Cyclopleeze in powder form. I have also started double dosing Amino Acids. With these two combined, there was a tremendous amount of growth in all of my SPS corals. Since then, I lowered to recommended amounts on Amino Acids since I was getting algae blooms all over the tank windows and the colors of the corals darkened up. Now they are brighter than ever! You definitely have to find a balance between amount of feedings and timing. Pumping of my ZEOvit reactor is also performed every other day to release any mulm or detritus that will help feed my corals and for best of all, to continue the ion exchange process of the zeolite rocks. My Euro Reef skimmer pulls out any excess organics which helps with the high feeding times and also provide the 02 it needs for tank stability.
LIVESTOCK
SPS
A. Austera
A. Cerealis
A. Desalwii
A. Elegans
A. Elseyi
A. Hoeksemai
A. Humilis
A. Loisetteae - Steve T,
A. Millepora - Pink, Yellow, Frost Yellow, & Blue.
A. Monticulosa
A. Nana
A. Nobilis
A. Parilis
A. Robusta
A. Samoensis
A. Selago
A. Simplex
A. Speciosa
A. Suharsonoi
A. Tenius
A. Torihalimeda - Strawberry Stag and Yellow
A. Tortuosa - "Blue Oregon" & Purple.
A. Wallacae
A. Yongei - Purple
M. Aequituberculata
M. Capricornis - Purple Rim Cap & Orange Thick Crust Cap.
M. Circumvellata
M. Danae
M. Digitata
M. Elkhorn
M. Samarensis
M. Turgescens - "Superman"
M. Verrucosa
S. Pistillata
S. Hystrix
Purple Monster
LPS
Enchinophyllia
Acanathrastea Enchinata
Elegance
Cynarina x 2
Fungia
Softies
Clavularia
Ricordea Florida Assortment
Ricordea Yuma Assortment
Fish
Blue "Hippo" Tang
Lawnmower Blenny
Chromis x 2
Inverts
Red Coco Worm
Red Brittle Star
Cleaner Shrimp
Glass Anemone Shrimp
Pederson Shrimp
Coral Banded Shrimp
Peppermint Shrimp x 2
Seahare
Lettuce Nudibranch
Feather Duster Worm Assortment
Queen Conch x 2
CORAL GROWTH
LETS GET PERSONAL!
Occupation?
Senior Network Admin at a Financial Institution.
Family/Single?
Loving father of 3 beautiful girls; My wife and 2 daughters.
Other Hobbies?
None at the moment, but came from a background of sports car upgrading/tuning. Also owned a local nightlife magazine.
Are you a happy ZEOvit user?
Extremely Happy. I honestly don't feel I would be where I am at now without the aid of ZEOvit. Definitely a proven method in my aquarium.
What/Who got you into the reef hobby?
A good friend of mine. I visited his place, and fell in love with the beauty one can own.
First type of fish and coral?
First fish was a Maroon Clown Tang with a brown anemone.

Last coral and fish acquired?
Japanese Swallowtail, but it died of a disease that prevented him from eating.
Is energy saving a concern for you when purchasing equipment?
Now it is. Before it was not a concern. Since I have been preparing myself for a larger tank, energy saving is definitely a high priority of mine for years to come.
Who do you call for help when you have problems with your aquarium?
My trusted friends on zeovit.com
Have you ever dived or snorkeled and seen an open reef?
No. But definitely in the plans!
Which is your all time favorite aquarium(s)?
My #1 pick of all time is still Steve Weast's 850g Aquarium. His tank is top of the line and does not cut any shortcuts. I have seen many other aquariums around the world and his is very well planned out and has one of the best selections of corals one can dream of with soft/hard coral diversity.
THE FUTURE
There will be no additional plans for this tank. I will be planning to upgrade to a larger aquarium soon. There will be a whole new theme to the new tank which will surprise a lot of people. Its a journey I am anxious to begin!
For now, equipment will be flowing in for the new upgrade. As a teaser, the infamous Bubble King 400 EXT is one of the first pieces of equipment to arrive in order to handle the upgraded volume of water it will need to support. The expense of a Bubble King was grand, but looking into the future and knowing that energy consumption will be minimal for years to come, made me feel I made the right choice. All other future equipment will be reviewed with the same idea.
CAMERA SPECIFICATIONS
All of the pictures on this webpage were taken with the following:
1. Nikon Coolpix 4300
2. Canon 10D with and without a Macro Lens.
Preset settings were used. On the Nikon, Night Mode without Flash was the choice for colorful pictures and the full tank shot. Macro Mode on the Nikon was also used for clearer & closer images. No other setting were changed and white balance was not used with the preset settings. For the Canon 10D (Naka's camera), I used his preexisting settings and chose the P mode for all pictures. The Macro lens was used most of the time for clear crisp images you see below under HQ Images. Tripod and other settings were not used for any of these camera's.
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