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BK Skimmer Tuning Questions

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  • BK Skimmer Tuning Questions

    I just received my BK 250 internal and have a number of questions on how to fine tune the operation. I posed these notes to Scott, but I thought I would share the questions on the forum so we can use our collective smarts on fine tuning these monsters.

    Here we go...

    -I have the inlet plug to the pump in all the way and then backed out enough to get the black dots to line up. Is that the correct setting?

    -The bubbles in the "bubble froth" at the top of the skimmer are larger than I thought they would be. Is this because the skimmer is in the break in phase, or do the bubbles get finer with the introduction of more air? (Related question below)

    -I notice that if I back out the pump suction insert I begin to introduce more air into the skimmer. I would think more air is better (???) so should I back it out about half way? I realize this question depends on the answer to the first question above.

    -I have the top of the telescoping tube apparatus set just above the bottom of the skimmate colection cup. Correct?

    -I have the black dots lined up on the telescoping tube for max flow, least back pressure. Correct?

    -The top of the bubble froth is about 3" below the overflow tube. Is that about right for now? I'm not producing any skimmate/foam yet, so I want to be on the conservative side to avoid a cup overflow. Update, after only operating about 4 hours I'm beginning to develop some foam!

    -With regard to aligning the black dots, is max flow the best option so long as the top of the bubble froth is well within the tube? I figure i can adjust the telescoping tube to make this work.

    -I would think the max flow with the most air intake would take full advantage of the skimmers capacity. Correct?

    -I have the outlet tube angled at about a 45 degree downward angle. The current water outlet looks to fill about a 1/4 of the pipe. Does that sound about right? I want to make sure the pump is producing the correct throughput.

  • #2
    You need to give it more time. The larger bubbles at the top are fine, if i'm understanding you correctly. The bubbles should be tiny at the bottom and main part of the body, but might be larger at the top. Keep the pump nozzle aligned at the black dots for now. More air might be needed later, but let it break in first to decide. There is a such a thing as too much air, so just wait and see. The riser tubes sound fine, but adjustments might be needed later. That can most likely be accomplished with the wedge pipe (outlet tube). Leave it like this overnight, then close down the tube if needed to produce more skim.


    • #3
      I agree with Madison, you need to give it time. Conversely, here is a picture of my 300 internal after just 24 hour.

      You'll notice in the next pic the riser tube is even with the bottom of the cup as is yours. I have the two dots lined up on the intake nozzle. The telescoping/rotating tube is turned about 140 degrees from the lower dot. Looking from the top down, the upper dot is at 5 O'clock compared to the lower dot being at 12 O'clock. I can just see the water level in the riser tube within the collection cup.

      And here after 48 hrs.

      After a week or two of break in, take the collection cup off and adjust the nozzle, you will really be able to see what effect it has on the bubble size and quality.

      265 gallon SPS tank. Bubble King 300 Internal, MRC CR-6 Calc Reactor. 3 400 watt 20k Helios. 90 gallon Frag tank plumbed into main display.