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durso pipe is so loud...

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  • durso pipe is so loud...



    I installed the durso pipe...but it is so loud in sump...


    1.5inch bulkhead->straight 1.5pipe-> 1cm gap->water surface in sump..

    It is like waterfall in sump...


    Could you tell me the solution about this?

    www.spsholic.com

  • #2
    Put a T on the bottom of the return with the horizontal at the water level, elbow it up and above the water level.



    Marshal
    265 gallon SPS tank. Bubble King 300 Internal, MRC CR-6 Calc Reactor. 3 400 watt 20k Helios. 90 gallon Frag tank plumbed into main display.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by CAReefer
      Put a T on the bottom of the return with the horizontal at the water level, elbow it up and above the water level.



      Marshal

      Thanks Marshal...

      like this ? ㅗ

      how about the position(gap?) between TEE and water surface in sump?

      "above" means about 1cm?

      and what about elbow? it is useless?

      www.spsholic.com

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      • #4
        well the easiest approach is to use a ball value and control the flow..
        ---------------------------
        180g 3 side Low Iron Glass, Lighting: ATI Power Module 10 x 80W KZ Coral Light (awiting for to mix with fiji purple), Return Pump: Red Dragon 12m3, Tunze WaveMaker:1x 6200, 3 x 6100 and 1 x 6060 + Multicontroller 7095, Bubble King 300 Internal, Deltec - PF 601S, Arctica Chiller 1/2HP, I~Zeo Reactor IZ-618

        BK 300 in actionhttp://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5...IDEO_00003.flv

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        • #5
          Originally posted by keigo
          well the easiest approach is to use a ball value and control the flow..

          Dear Keigo..

          You mean I can reduce noise ,via ball valve,reducing the flow of return pump?

          www.spsholic.com

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          • #6
            Flushing Effect: A commonly reported problem when first installing standpipes is what I call a flushing effect. The water level in the chamber bounces up and down at a slow steady cyclic pattern. This is different than the issue above where the water level stays to low. This issues typically is not caused by the size of the air-hole in the end cap. The flushing effect is almost always caused by back pressure in the drain line. Typically the back pressure has two main causes:

            Drain pipes in the sump being submerged below the water surface to far. Ideally you just want the drain pipes submerged about an inch or two. Just enough to reduce the splashing noise in the sump.
            Any loops or dips in the drain lines if using flexible tubing. If using hard PVC pipe for the drain lines make sure they always have a slope to them, don't make them perfectly horizontal or perfectly vertical.
            from www.dursostandpipes.com

            Can I submerge the pvc stand pipe under the water surface about 1~2 inches?
            Is it ok?

            www.spsholic.com

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            • #7
              Yes, you can submerge them. I Use the T with the water level at the center of the horizontal, then elbow up with a short piece of pipe. This allows the water to enter the sump below the surface, and the elbowed up piece allows the air to escape without too much splashing. Have you tried placing a cap on the top of the Durso? I took a cap and a small length of pipe, drilled a 1/4" hole through the side (both the cap and the pipe) and simply rotate the cap on the pipe to control opening size thus controlling the amount of air into the durso and to some extent, the level of water in the overflow. Personally I don't like the ball valve. I have had one catch a valonia bubble and nearly overflowed my tank. Luckily the pump sucked air prior to, but I did burn up a pump.

              Marshal
              265 gallon SPS tank. Bubble King 300 Internal, MRC CR-6 Calc Reactor. 3 400 watt 20k Helios. 90 gallon Frag tank plumbed into main display.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Marshal

                www.spsholic.com

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