What are y'alls thoughts on the best place to put controller probes? I am think the best place would be the tank, since that is what I am really concerned about. Also things won't go crazy in the main tank should the return pump go. But since this whole controller thing is new to me, I would rather hear from those who are more experienced...
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controller probes - tank or sump
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I keep all of my probes in the sump but logically Temp probe should be in the main tank if we are employing high temp MH cutoff in case chiller failsFarish
Setup: 250G System, ATI Powermodul 10x80w T5s, 4x6100 Tunze Streams & 7095 MultiController, Deltec PF1000 CR, Deltec AP902 Skimmer, IKS, Zeovit, Artica 1Hp Chiller
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Mine are in the sump, I wish I could put the temp probe in the tank but the cable isn't long enough400 gallon reef, Bubble King 300, I~Spin, 2 x 10,000K BLV 400W, 2 x 20,000K Radium 400W, 2 x 6,400K Osram 400W, Schuran Jetstream 1, AquaController Pro
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If you put the temp probe in the sump, and the heater in the tank, then the temp of the sump water will control the heater... not a good thing when your pump is off for maintenance.
If you put the PH probe at the return of the PH reactor then it may not reflect your actual PH value accurately.400 gallon reef, Bubble King 300, I~Spin, 2 x 10,000K BLV 400W, 2 x 20,000K Radium 400W, 2 x 6,400K Osram 400W, Schuran Jetstream 1, AquaController Pro
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Originally posted by Orion76If you put the temp probe in the sump, and the heater in the tank, then the temp of the sump water will control the heater... not a good thing when your pump is off for maintenance.
Originally posted by Orion76If you put the PH probe at the return of the PH reactor then it may not reflect your actual PH value accurately.--Matt
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Originally posted by tonkadawgwhich is why the temp probe would be in the main tank
Originally posted by tonkadawgI thought the PH probe should measure the effluent from the reactor? Which in turn would control the reactor? Or do I have that wrong?
You can also control the reactor based on actual tank PH.400 gallon reef, Bubble King 300, I~Spin, 2 x 10,000K BLV 400W, 2 x 20,000K Radium 400W, 2 x 6,400K Osram 400W, Schuran Jetstream 1, AquaController Pro
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You can either run the effluent through a container with the probe or just choose the lowest acceptable tank PH and shut the CO2 off if it reaches that point. In the latter case you wat the probe well away from the effluent.400 gallon reef, Bubble King 300, I~Spin, 2 x 10,000K BLV 400W, 2 x 20,000K Radium 400W, 2 x 6,400K Osram 400W, Schuran Jetstream 1, AquaController Pro
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One of the reasons I went with the aquatronica was the ability to use multiple pH probes. This is based on the almost certain eventuality that I will return to the hard coral "game" and require a CA reactor in the future. IMO it's best to have a pH probe that directly monitors the pH in the reactor (having a port built for the reactor is really, really simple) and a separate pH probe for monitoring the system as a whole. Out of convenience I put most of my probes in the sump. I try to have the temp probe in the tank (like in an overflow or something).
Matt, have a port drilled into your CA reactor lid. That way if something "jams" and the reactor stops putting out effluent your CO2 will still shut off and avoid having you turn your reactor to mush. The number one "problem" long term with CA reactors IMO is that they can get jammed/obstructed with the precipitates of the effluent. If your probe is in a cup, you'll never know that the reactor stopped producing effluent....10x3x2 FOWLR (for now)
BK400ext
RD12 return, 2 RD12 closed loop, wavebox with extension
MRC kalkmixer
IKS
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That's a good point, Chuck. I don't have my probe in the reactor because I want to know the tank PH. Using two PH probes would be ideal. Maybe I'll buy a separate controller400 gallon reef, Bubble King 300, I~Spin, 2 x 10,000K BLV 400W, 2 x 20,000K Radium 400W, 2 x 6,400K Osram 400W, Schuran Jetstream 1, AquaController Pro
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As Chuck said I think this would be a pretty simple DIY project. If you have a dual chaimber reactor put it in the first chaimber. If you did not have any of the tools I would think you could do this for about $20 bucks or so. You will need a male pipe adapter. The exact fitting is a 1/2" x1/2" nylon male pipe adapter http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/pr...=&lstBool=true. I had to reem my fitting out slightly to pass the probe through. I think this is probably a MPT male pipe thread fitting. When you tap for male pipe thread make sure you do not run the pipe tap too deep. These type of threads are meant to tighten on themselves. Remember to check on the side of the tap for the required drill bit size for that tap. Hope that helps.
Take Care,
Chad
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